Professional reviews
Jancis Robinson (17)
La Morra. Fruit comes from MGA Roncaglie (420 m) and Bussia (350 m) facing west, with the sun in the afternoon. The vineyards were vinified separately and fermentation triggered by a pied de cuve prepared in both vineyards, ‘because, in hot years, not only the vines are stressed but also the yeast’. The Bussia part was fermented and aged in concrete, Roncaglie also in concrete and a bit aged in large oak.
Just mid ruby. Lifted spice, cherry nose with hints of oatmeal, garden herbs and stones emerging with aeration. Gorgeous, sappy palate with grainy tannins weaved into the cherry fruit. Firm structure and lots of juice yet, at the same time, kind of taut. (WS)
BOW (8)
Lara Rocchetti and Luisa Sala, known as LaLu, bring fresh perspective to Barolo wines, defying the traditional 'modernist' and 'traditionalist' labels. Their background in carbon-neutral wineries and experience in Burgundy and Piedmont have influenced their approach. With meticulous farming, they cultivate 5ha of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto, including esteemed crus in Monforte and La Morra. LaLu employs Lalou Bize-Leroy's technique of partial destemming and 50% whole-cluster fermentations, resulting in approachable yet complex wines. Their Dolcetto is floral and fruit-driven, Barbera vibrant with herbal nuances, and Langhe Nebbiolo showcases red cherry and dried rose aromas. The Barolo 'Le Coste de Monforte d'Alba' balances power and finesse, offering sumptuous sour cherry and spice flavors, designed for aging. LaLu's success in producing high-value and enjoyable wines is noteworthy, especially in a region of soaring land prices and intense competition.
