Hamilton Russell Vineyards
Two grapes, one valley, and a stretch of coast that most South African growers once considered too cold to bother with. Hamilton Russell Vineyards is a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, the cool maritime appellation tucked behind the old fishing village of Hermanus. It is one of the most southerly wine estates in Africa, and it was the first winery in the valley: before it existed, nobody had planted vines there at all.
Today the Hemel-en-Aarde is full of serious producers, which says something about the original hunch. Decanter has called it one of South Africa's iconic estates and counts it among the New World's leading sources of Burgundian-style wine. The wines still come from those same two varieties.
The history
Tim Hamilton Russell ran the advertising agency J. Walter Thompson and was the company's chairman when he purchased a large tract of undeveloped land in the Walker Bay region in 1975. He planted the very first grapevines in that valley. His reasoning was simple, though it was an unconventional idea in South Africa at the time. Great wine is produced in cool climates, and this was precisely such a cool place.
It took quite some effort to find someone to make the wine. Peter Finlayson took on the task and remained there from 1979 to 1990; he later said that most winemakers were reluctant to take on a project in a place with no track record. The first Hamilton Russell Vineyards wine, the 1981 Pinot Noir, was released in 1982.
Tim Hamilton Russell also spent years in conflict with the industry he had joined. He urged the South African wine industry to shift from quantity to quality and campaigned against production quotas, minimum price systems, and the dop system, a practice in which farm workers were paid part of their wages in wine. In 1989, he joined forces with four other Cape winemakers to form Cape Winelands Commitment, an organization opposed to apartheid.
After a long battle with Parkinson's, he passed away in July 2013 in Hermanus, at the age of 79. By that time, the winery had gained worldwide renown for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines, and the valley he had pioneered was filled with other wineries.
The vineyards
Hamilton Russell Vineyards is located on Route R320, which extends inland from Hermanus and leads to Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. It is a small patch of land set between the coast and the hills, and it is one of the most southerly places on the African mainland where commercial viticulture takes place.
The land initially purchased by Tim Hamilton Russell consisted of approximately 160 hectares of undeveloped land. The vineyard itself occupies only a portion of this area and was established from scratch on land with no notable history of viticulture.
The Atlantic is located about 3 kilometres away. This proximity is the key feature of the region and is what distinguishes this winery from most Cape wine regions, which are warmer and situated further inland.
The terroir
The cool climate is typical for the region. The air blowing in from the sea moderates the climate of Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in a way that cannot be experienced in traditional Cape growing regions located deep inland, and Hamilton Russell Vineyards was established based on the expectation that this environment would be suitable for both Burgundian grape varieties.
Being located this far south and so close to the sea means that ripening occurs more slowly. This has tangible consequences for both the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay varieties, which are sensitive to heat.
This valley now has its own appellation, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, within the broader Walker Bay region. In effect, Hamilton Russell Vineyards laid the groundwork for this.
The grape varieties
This winery has never cultivated a wide range of grape varieties. Hamilton Russell Vineyards handles the following varieties:
- Pinot Noir: The variety used to produce the winery's very first wine
- Chardonnay: One of the earliest grape varieties planted on the African continent
These two varieties were an unusual choice for South Africa back in the 1970s. To this day, these are the only two varieties produced under this label.
The wines
The Hamilton Russell Vineyards lineup is small. It consists of two wines, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both of which are derived from Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and are released under the winery's name with each vintage. This strategy of focus has been consistently maintained since the winery's inception, which is why it is recognized not merely as a producer of Cape wine by chance, but as a winery specializing in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
There are two other wine labels associated with this estate. Southern Right is focused on redefining Pinotage, while Ashbourne produces blended wines. These are independent brands with their own distinct identities; they are not secondary labels of the estate's wines.
In addition to wine, the estate also produces olive oil and honey.
Frequently asked questions
Where exactly is Hamilton Russell Vineyards?
On the R320 in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, inland from Hermanus, in the Cape of Good Hope region of South Africa. It is down the coast from Cape Town, close to the Atlantic.
Who founded the estate?
Tim Hamilton Russell, an advertising executive, who bought the land in 1975 and planted the valley's first vines. He died in 2013.
What is the estate best known for?
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in a Burgundian style, and for opening up the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley as a wine region.
Does the estate make anything other than these two wines?
Yes. Southern Right and Ashbourne are associated wine labels, focused on Pinotage and on blends, and the property also produces olive oil and honey.
