Domaine Lécheneaut
Two brothers, 10 hectares, 18 appellations. This is Domaine Lécheneaut, located in Nuits-Saint-Georges, and it provides a key to understanding the character of the wines produced here. Instead of a single large vineyard, Philippe and Vincent Lécheneaut manage small plots scattered throughout Côte de Nuits like a mosaic, which means their wine lineup, from village wines to Premiers Crus, Grand Cru, all produced within the Pinot Noir region.
Each year, 50,000 to 60,000 bottles leave the winery. By any standard, this is not a large production volume. The domaine remains family-run, with the brothers managing both the vineyards and the winery. Although it has grown steadily since the mid-1980s, it has never transformed into an industrial-scale operation.
History
Fernand Lécheneaut started his winery in Nuits-Saint-Georges in the late 1950s. He was originally from Morey-Saint-Denis, and the domaine he founded was small. He owned a total of 2.5 hectares of vineyards spread across Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, and Morey-Saint-Denis.
A turning point came in 1986. Philippe and Vincent, the sons of Fernand, joined the family business after completing their studies in winemaking at the wine school in Beaune. Since they had grown up in the vineyards, this decision was not particularly surprising, but what followed was a deliberate expansion.
Purchases began almost immediately. In 1987, they acquired additional vineyards in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée. They subsequently purchased additional vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin, and part of Premiers Crus, followed by the acquisition of Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Les Pruliers, as well as Clos des Ormes in Morey-Saint-Denis.
Along with the vineyards, the buildings were also modernized. They renovated the offices, expanded the winery to install a temperature-control system, and in 2005, built an additional wine cellar and a new storage facility. The brothers stated that they wanted to further expand the appellation's scope to meet domestic and international demand.
The vineyards
Domaine Lécheneaut cultivates 10 hectares of vineyards, which are scattered across 18 appellations in the Côte de Nuits region. With an average of less than 1 hectare per appellation, this figure clearly illustrates just how scattered the vineyards are.
In the Burgundy region, this fragmentation is common because the land has been subdivided over the past two centuries in accordance with inheritance laws. However, this has a significant impact on farming operations throughout the year. Each plot is managed separately, harvested separately, and vinified separately. At a domaine of this size, it is impossible to cut corners by lumping the plots together.
The communes involved stretch from Morey-Saint-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin in the north, through Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée, to the estate's headquarters in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Alongside village level, Premier Cru and Grand Cru are also included.
Pinot Noir
Côte de Nuits is a red wine-producing region, and Domaine Lécheneaut's reputation depends on Pinot Noir. The Grand Cru and Premier Cru bottled wines are pure single-varietal wines made exclusively from the Pinot Noir grape.
Pinot Noir is a challenging grape variety to cultivate. It has thin skins and ripens early; in rainy years, it is prone to rot, and in hot years, it is susceptible to sunburn. Furthermore, because it reflects differences in soil more distinctly than any other variety, Burgundy divides its vineyards into numerous named plots.
The winemaking
The Lécheneaut wine cellar is more than just a museum exhibit. A temperature-control system was installed during the winery's expansion, which means that, in the case of red Burgundy, the brothers can prevent the fermentation temperature from rising too high or raise the temperature in tanks where fermentation has stalled.
In 2005, an additional cellar and a modern storage building were added, providing even more room. The storage environment is far more critical than one might think. Wines aging in oak barrels require stable conditions, as do bottled wines awaiting shipment.
As is the case at virtually every historic Côte de Nuits winery, oak barrels are a crucial element here as well. Philippe and Vincent Lécheneaut describe their approach as a process of consistently pursuing better quality by utilizing the most effective equipment available, while maintaining the domaine as a traditional, family-run operation. In fact, this is interpreted as pragmatism rather than dogmatism.
The wines
With 18 appellations, Domaine Lécheneaut has an exceptionally broad lineup for such a small winery. Examples include regional wines, village wines, the Premiers Crus series, and the top-tier Grand Cru Clos de la Roche.
Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes is one of the wines in the Premier Cru lineup. Les Damodes is generally considered to have a more aromatic profile and a lighter structure than the bolder styles found within Nuits. The alcohol content is usually around 13%.
The other Premiers Crus include Les Pruliers, which belongs to Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Clos des Ormes, which belongs to Morey-Saint-Denis; both wines were acquired as the brothers expanded their business. Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, and Gevrey-Chambertin are also included.
These wines are made for long-term aging. They are medium-bodied and oak-aged, with a structure that reveals its true character after several years of aging in a cool cellar rather than being consumed immediately after opening.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Domaine Lécheneaut based?
In Nuits-Saint-Georges, in the Côte de Nuits, Burgundy.
Who runs the domaine today?
Brothers Philippe and Vincent Lécheneaut. They took over in 1986 from their father Fernand, who founded the house in the late 1950s.
How much wine does Domaine Lécheneaut make?
Between fifty and sixty thousand bottles a year, from ten hectares. A large share goes to export markets.
Does Domaine Lécheneaut own any Grand Cru vineyards?
Yes. Clos de la Roche, in Morey-Saint-Denis, is the domaine's Grand Cru.
