Paul Cluver

History

The Clüver family has been farming the ‘De Rust’ estate since 1896, but winemaking came into their lives much later. Dr Paul Kluver, who was not only a farmer but also a neurosurgeon, was approached by representatives of the South African wine industry, who considered Elgin’s altitude and soil ideal for producing high-quality wines, and in 1986 he agreed to allow the ‘Stellenbosch Farmers’ winery to plant the region’s first vines on his land. Chardonnay followed in 1987, and Pinot Noir in 1988.

The first wine, a Riesling, was released in 1990, although it was still produced off-site at the Nederburg estate in Paarl. In 1996, the family built their own wine cellar, and Andris Burger, Dr Kluver’s son-in-law, produced the estate’s first vintage; he continues to hold this position to this day, being one of the region’s most experienced winemakers and a member of the Cape Winemakers’ Guild. Since then, management has passed to the next generation: Paul Kluver Jr. runs the business, whilst his wife Karin oversees regenerative agriculture.

Vineyards

The estate’s vineyards currently cover an area of around 72 hectares and are situated at altitudes ranging from 290 to 435 metres above sea level, forming part of a vast natural ecosystem on the outskirts of Groenlandberg. Just over half of the area is designated as a nature reserve rather than agricultural land, and forms part of the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, South Africa’s first UNESCO-recognised biosphere reserve.

Terroir

Elgin has the coolest climate of all South African wine-growing regions, thanks to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean (just 20 kilometres away) and its relatively high altitude, which also allows it to be influenced by a continental climate. The soil consists of ancient Bokkeveld shale overlying water-retaining clay, whilst the significant variation in day and night temperatures slows down ripening, which intensifies the flavour and aroma whilst preserving fresh acidity.

Grape varieties

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the vineyard’s main varieties, it is these two that have established its reputation, with Chardonnay alone accounting for almost a fifth of the vineyard area. Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling round out the range of varieties planted, with Riesling being a real rarity in South Africa, where the total area under this variety nationwide does not exceed 200 hectares.

Winemaking

The grapes are sorted by hand and fermented naturally without the addition of yeast, whilst the vineyard management is based on the principles of regenerative agriculture, aimed at maintaining the health of the soil, which is nourished by natural mountain water.

The Pinot Noir is aged for around 12 months in oak barrels, whilst the Chardonnay is pressed as whole bunches and matures for around nine months in barrels. The entry-level ‘Village’ wines are treated with even greater care: they are aged in a mixture of old large barrels, foudres and concrete ‘eggs’, rather than in new oak barrels, allowing the fruity notes and minerality of the soil to come to the fore.

Wines

The range varies from affordable ‘Village’ wines to the more serious ‘Estate’ range and the flagship ‘Seven Flags’ wines, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which are widely regarded as benchmarks for both varieties in South Africa and were rated as ‘First Growth’ wines by wine critic Tim Atkin in his annual report on the Cape Province. Rounding off the range is the ‘Noble Late Harvest’ Riesling, alongside Clüver’s long-established Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, as well as cider produced under the Cluver & Jack brand. A

cross the entire range, the aim remains the same: to create wines that reflect the unique characteristics of Elgin’s soil and climate, rather than striving for a heavier, international style.