Clusel-Roch
Côte-Rôtie is home to many names that have been famous for decades. Clusel-Roch emerged through a unique path, via arable farming. Until the 1980s, the families of Ampuis grew vegetables and fruit trees alongside Syrah; winemaking was little more than a side business, with the wine appreciated by connoisseurs.
After 1980, Gilbert Clusel changed course, clearing the mountain slopes that had been overgrown with scrub and staking everything on the future of Côte-Rôtie, which was not yet in vogue at the time. Currently, Guillaume Clusel manages this domaine.
The vines are located north of Côte-Rôtie, on iron-rich mica schist soil, on very steep slopes. Although this winery is primarily known for its red wines, Clusel-Roch also produces white wines at Condrieu.
From market gardens to Côte-Rôtie
From the 1950s through the 1980s, René and Joséphine Clusel, like many Ampuis farmers, made their living by farming vegetables, fruit trees, and a few plots of Côte-Rôtie grapevines. They bottled and sold their own wine. Although Côte-Rôtie did not enjoy the same reputation back then as it does today, René Clusel's wine remained a steady favorite among wine enthusiasts.
His son, Gilbert, took a risk. After completing his studies in 1980, he joined the family-owned farm and began reclaiming the abandoned vineyards.
The work was not as easy as it sounded. Côte-Rôtie had been highly productive from ancient times through the early 20th century, but had been largely neglected since the first decades of that century. Bushes, shrubs, and even oak trees were growing between the old retaining walls on the slopes.
When René Clusel retired, the vineyard area of this domaine was only 3.5 hectares. Around that time, vegetable and fruit cultivation ceased, and it was precisely then that Les Grandes Places entered the story.
Today Guillaume Clusel manages this domaine. This land has always been cultivated by this family; they began as vegetable growers but now operate exclusively as winemakers.
Fourteen hectares, three villages
Clusel-Roch cultivates 14 hectares of vineyards, which are not all located in a single area. These vineyards are located across three historic wine villages in the Lyonnais region: Ampuis, Condrieu, and Millery.
Ampuis is the center of this region. It includes the Côte-Rôtie parcel as well as land designated as Côtes-du-Rhône and Vin de France. Condrieu supplies Viognier grapes for white wine. Millery is located further north toward Lyon and belongs to the Coteaux du Lyonnais designation of origin.
Here, the names of the vineyards are important. Les Grandes Places, Les Schistes, and Viallière are all released as separate Côte-Rôtie bottled wines, while Verchery is a vineyard within Condrieu.
Naturally, the farming methods in the two areas are completely different. Côte-Rôtie refers to steep, terraced slopes, whereas Coteaux du Lyonnais has relatively gentle terrain.
The terroir
Clusel-Roch's Côte-Rôtie vineyard is located in the northern half of the appellation and sits on iron-rich mica schist soil. This is the key geological feature of this end of the Côte-Rôtie hillside, and in the wine, it manifests as a firm texture rather than a soft one.
The bedrock lies close to the surface and is exposed in many places. The topsoil is only about 50 centimeters thick, so it is not very deep.
However, the grapevine roots are tenacious. The roots dig straight into the schist, extending several meters deep, and absorb nutrients from the rock rather than from the virtually nonexistent topsoil. Thanks to this depth, the vines are able to withstand even the driest of years better than the thin soil layer would suggest.
The grapes
At Clusel-Roch, two varieties play key roles; while these are standard in the northern Rhône region, they are worth mentioning separately.
- Syrah is the primary grape variety used to produce Côte-Rôtie red wine. Les Grandes Places and Viallière are bottled as 100% Syrah.
- Viognier: This variety is used in two ways. It is used alone to produce Condrieu, and small quantities are blended with Syrah to produce Côte-Rôtie.
- The proportion of Viognier included in red wines is small and not fixed. Les Schistes has been produced at a ratio of about 4-5%, and in some vintages, it has not been included at all.
Fermenting a small amount of Viognier together with Syrah is not so much a new method as it is a long-standing practice in the production of Côte-Rôtie. This enhances the aroma and slightly softens the tannins.
Winemaking
Clusel-Roch clearly articulates its approach: whether on steep Côte-Rôtie slopes or gently sloping Coteaux du Lyonnais terrain, the estate cultivates and vinifies its grapes in a manner as close to nature as possible. The family describes this as bringing the terroir to life and emphasizes that this process begins in the vineyard rather than in the winery.
The use of oak barrels varies across the product line. The top-tier Côte-Rôtie cuvée is aged in oak barrels, while the Les Schistes is made in a lighter style depending on the vintage, sometimes to the point where oak aromas are barely detectable. The Condrieu features only a very subtle hint of oak.
Alcohol content also provides an important clue. These wines typically have an alcohol content of around 13-13.5%, which is relatively restrained compared to modern northern Rhône Syrah wines.
What Clusel-Roch bottles
Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places is the wine that epitomizes this winery's reputation. Made from 100% Syrah grapes grown in one of the vineyards where Gilbert Clusel has resumed production, it is full-bodied and suitable for long-term aging.
The Côte-Rôtie lineup includes Les Schistes, a lighter, ready-to-drink red wine, and Viallière, a Syrah from another single vineyard.
The white wine is produced in Condrieu and bottled under the name Verchery. Made from 100% Viognier, it is full-bodied and characterized by light oak notes. In addition to these two famous appellations, Clusel-Roch also offers Coteaux du Lyonnais from its Millery vines, plus Côtes-du-Rhône and Vin de France from Ampuis.
Therefore, this brand's product lineup is much broader than the reputation of Côte-Rôtie might suggest. This is worth noting if you've only associated this name with Syrah.
Frequently asked questions
Who runs Clusel-Roch today?
Guillaume Clusel directs the domaine. Guillaume Clusel directs the domaine. He follows Gilbert, who joined the family holding in 1980 and turned it from mixed farming into a wine estate.
Where is the estate based?
In Ampuis, the main village of the Côte-Rôtie appellation in the northern Rhône. The estate also owns vines in Condrieu and in Millery.
Does Clusel-Roch make white wine?
Yes. The Condrieu, bottled as Verchery, is 100% Viognier, and Viognier is also used in small proportions in some of the Côte-Rôtie reds.
What is the estate best known for?
Les Grandes Places, its single-parcel Côte-Rôtie, and more broadly for reviving abandoned hillside vineyard land in the appellation from 1980 onwards.
