Ronco del Gnemiz

Situated atop the Rosazzo hill in the Colline Orientali del Friuli region lies a small family-run estate that has quietly become one of the region’s most talked-about destinations. The Ronco del Gnemiz estate is run by Serena Palazzolo and her sons, whilst her husband, Christian Patat, is in charge of winemaking. Their priorities are low yields, environmentally friendly farming and wines that clearly reflect their origins.

History

The Palazzolo family acquired the estate in the 1960s. For many years, it existed without attracting much attention. The situation changed in the early 1990s when Serena returned home after completing her studies and took over the management from her father. She introduced an organic approach and a clear focus on quality. Together with Christian, who joined her in winemaking, she repositioned the estate as a producer of wines that reflect the characteristics of specific vineyards. The first wines under the Ronco del Gnemiz label were released as early as 1981, when Rosso del Gnemiz, a Bordeaux-style blend, first made the name famous.

Vineyards

The estate covers around 10–12 hectares and is situated on the summit of the Rosazzo hill, not far from the villages of San Giovanni al Natisone and Manzano. The vineyards are mainly south-facing, although individual plots vary in exposure and character. Several plots stand out: the east-facing Chardonnay vineyard, considered the oldest in the Colline Orientali and planted between the two world wars, and the Sauvignon plot, replanted in 2009 using mass-propagated cuttings from the estate’s own old vines.

Organic farming is practised with elements of biodynamics, and yields are kept very low, sometimes amounting to just 18–20 hectolitres per hectare.

Terroir

The key word here is ‘Ponka’, the local name for a layered soil of marl and sandstone that defines the character of Colline Orientali. Formed over millions of years, it retains water well, forces the vines to penetrate deep into the soil and imparts a rich minerality to the wines. The climate is a delicate balance: the Adriatic Sea brings cool breezes, the Alps to the north provide protection, and the Bora wind dries out the soil after the region’s periodic heavy rains.

Grapes

Both local and international varieties are featured here. Among the whites: Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla. As for the reds, the winery focuses on Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, as well as the local Schioppettino variety.

Winemaking

The approach to winemaking is active in the vineyard and restrained in the cellar. White wines are often pressed whole-bunch and fermented in barrels on the lees, with careful and measured use of new oak. As for red wines, each vineyard plot is vinified separately, and extraction is gentle, achieved mainly through pumping over rather than maceration. Ageing takes place in barrels, with the ratio of new to used wood selected individually for each wine.

Wines

The range includes single-vineyard white wines such as Sol, Peri and various Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnay from an old vineyard, Friulano and the historic Rosso del Gnemiz blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

In the best vintages, a separate Cabernet wine, Dott. Palazzolo, is produced in honour of Serena’s father.