Chateau Roc des Cambes

History: Saint-Émilion detour that went north

In the late 1980s, François Mitjavile was already producing wines at Tertre Rôteboeuf. He wanted to expand his business, but the high cost of land in Saint-Émilion stood in his way.

So in 1988, he purchased a 14-hectare plot of land in the Côtes de Bourg region on the right bank of the Gironde River, quite a distance from the trendy villages. Although the land was inexpensive, the purchase was by no means a compromise. What captivated him was the clay-limestone soil, quite similar to what he had experienced in Saint-Émilion, as well as the south-facing terrain and the already mature vines.

That very combination is the whole story of Chateau Roc des Cambes. Mitjavile did not go to Côtes de Bourg to make second-rate wine in a second-rate region. He went because he judged the site itself to be more than a worthy counterpart, and he has treated it as such ever since.

The nickname Junior Tertre Rôteboeuf perfectly illustrates how the two vineyards are managed: the same touch, the same intuition, but different appellations.

The vineyards

Chateau Roc des Cambes is located in the Côtes de Bourg region and spans 14 hectares. The vinyerads face south and are situated on a slope.

Because south-facing slopes allow grapes to ripen earlier and more evenly, the Merlot-dominated plantings can be harvested without having to endure the risks of late-fall weather.

When Mitjavile purchased this property in 1988, the vines were already quite old, and these old vines were part of the assets he acquired. Although yields are low, ripening is more consistent, and the vines had already been established here decades before anyone thought to compare this region to Saint-Émilion.

The terroir

Chateau Roc des Cambes is situated on clay-limestone soil, the same extensive soil type that lies beneath many of the top-tier Bordeaux wine regions along the right bank of the river. That was precisely what first caught Mitjavile's attention. It felt familiar.

Limestone absorbs moisture and releases it slowly, which is beneficial during dry summers. Clay plays a similar role and provides the density required for Merlot. Neither is particularly unique. However, the combination of these two elements, along with south-facing slopes and old vines, in an appellation that no one had set their sights on was, in 1988, a truly remarkable discovery.

Côtes de Bourg is located on the right bank of the Gironde and lies further north than the more famous regions. It shares the same river basin and the same maritime climate, yet its reputation is different.

Merlot first, Cabernet behind it

The planting ratio is Merlot-dominated, which is the standard practice for Côtes de Bourg and is suitable for the clay-limestone soil underground. The remainder is filled with Cabernet Sauvignon.

As in other parts of the Bordeaux region, the blending ratio varies by vintage. For example, the 2012 blend was as follows:

• Merlot, 80%
• Cabernet Sauvignon, the remaining 20%

Merlot adds rich body and weight to the mid-palate. Cabernet Sauvignon reinforces the structure and refines the finish. In this vineyard, Merlot plays the leading role.

The winemaking

Chateau Roc des Cambes's wine cellar operates in the same way as Tertre Rôteboeuf's, and Mitjavile has never made a secret of this. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks. The wine is then aged for an extended period in new oak barrels.

Concrete tanks are not a leftover from the past but a deliberate choice. Because they maintain a stable temperature and are chemically neutral, no additional components are introduced to the fruit during the fermentation process. Decades ago, many Bordeaux wineries removed their concrete tanks and replaced them with stainless steel tanks, but since then, a significant number have reverted to concrete tanks.

New oak barrels make up the other half of this equation. To age Merlot-heavy wine, produced from old vines, in new oak barrels for an extended period requires a concentrated fruit profile capable of holding its own, which in turn leads back to south-facing slopes and low-yielding vines.

The wine

"Chateau Roc des Cambes" is both the name of this winery and one of its wines; it is a red wine called "Côtes de Bourg," with "Merlot" as its main component and "Cabernet Sauvignon" as a supporting element. There is no story behind a second label, no white wine, and no diverse cuvée lineup.

This simplicity is the very essence of this wine. All grapes produced from the 14-hectare vineyard are made into a single wine, vinified in the same way every year; differences between vintages stem from growing conditions rather than decisions made in the winery.