Paul Pillot

Domaine Paul Pillot has been one of the most sought-after producers of white Burgundy wine over the past two decades. This small family estate, covering around 13 hectares and situated in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet in the Côte de Beaune region, has earned its reputation thanks to its precise, mineral-driven Chardonnays and a small range of Pinot Noirs, all of which are characterised by a light style.

History

The estate was founded in 1900 by Jean-Baptiste Pillo, a cooper by trade, who decided to devote himself entirely to winemaking. After the First World War, the business passed to his sons Alphonse and Henri, who expanded the vineyards and began bottling their own wine. In 1968, management passed to Henri’s son, Paul, who acquired several key Premier Cru plots in Chassagne-Montrachet (Clos Saint-Jean, Le Grand Ruchot, Le Caillé, La Grande Montagne) and Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois.

The estate is currently run by Paul’s children, Thierry and Christel, representing the fourth generation. Thierry began working with his father in 1999 and took full charge in 2004, whilst Christel plays an active role in the business. They are widely regarded as among the most promising young figures in the Côte de Beaune.

Vineyards

The estate covers around 13 hectares, of which approximately 4.5 are planted with red grape varieties. Most of the plots are located in Chassagne-Montrachet, including an impressive selection of Premier Crus (La Romanée, Les Grandes Ruchottes, Les Caillerets, Clos Saint Jean, La Grande Montagne, Champgains, Les Masures), as well as several plots in Saint-Aubin and Santenay and some Burgundy-level plots. Viticulture is carried out using organic methods, although the winery is not certified, and work on the Premier Cru plots is carried out exclusively by hand.

Terroir

Chassagne is situated in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune, where limestone and clay combine in proportions that vary from vineyard to vineyard. The whiter, limestone-dominated plots, such as La Romanée, situated higher up the slope, produce very dense, mineral wines. Les Caillerets and Les Grandes Ruchottes lend the wine a little more density, whilst Clos Saint Jean, with its high content of red clay, is traditionally a source of red wines. The red soils of Les Grandes Terres, situated on the Santenay side of Chassagne, produce the Chassagne-Montrachet rouge Vieilles Vignes from old vines. Saint-Aubin, tucked away in a cooler side valley, generally yields lighter and fresher white wines.

Grapes

White wines are made from the Chardonnay grape variety. Red wines are made from Pinot Noir. A small amount of Aligoté is also used for the Bourgogne Aligoté wine.

Winemaking

In the cellar, Thierry Pillot deliberately refrains from interfering in the process. Fermentation takes place using wild yeasts. A distinctive feature of the estate is that the lees are not allowed to settle before the juice enters the barrels, which is believed to impart additional freshness and tension to the wines.

New oak barrels are used sparingly, mainly for Premier Cru wines, and ageing takes place slowly and gently in barrels and in some larger vats. For the Chassagne red wine made from old vines, around 50 per cent of the grapes are fermented as whole bunches, and ageing takes place mainly in used barrels (around 90 per cent).

The aim of the entire range is transparency: to allow each vineyard to express its own character, rather than imposing the house style through oak or extraction.

Wines

The range follows the classic Burgundian pyramid. At the base are Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge.

The Village wines include Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc and Rouge, as well as Chassagne Rouge ‘Vieilles Vignes’ from a single plot on Les Grandes Terres. From the Saint-Aubin side, the Village wines are joined by the Premiers Crus Les Charmois and Le Charmois. Santenay Clos Genet adds a delightful red wine.

At the top of the range are the Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus: these include La Romanée, Les Grandes Ruchottes, Les Caillerets, Clos Saint Jean, La Grande Montagne and Champgains.

Total production amounts to around 80,000 bottles per year, of which approximately two-thirds are white wines and one-third are reds.