Anne Boisson
Some names in Meursault are eye-catching and others are not, Anne Boisson definitely falls into the latter category. For many years, the Boisson family was content to sell their wine through France's private mailing list, a method based on letting people come to them rather than chasing export business around the world, so their entry into the export market was late and their volume was small. Boisson's white wine stands out among regional wines for its taut, flinty minerality; it is made using a high proportion of old vines, with almost no new oak, and aged long and patiently in the cellar. Anne crafts wine alongside her brother, Pierre, in their family-owned winery in the village. Although the labels are different, the winemaking process is the same: small-batch production with almost no compromise.
Two centuries of history
The Boisson family has lived as winemakers in Meursault for over 200 years. For most of the modern era, these estates were collectively known as Domaine Boisson-Vadot.
Their structure has changed in a way that is common in Burgundy but is often confusing to outsiders. The family's vineyards were divided among Bernard Boisson and his two children, Pierre and Anne, and the wine is currently bottled under the Pierre Boisson and Anne Boisson labels at the family's winery located in Meursault.
Bottles labeled Anne Boisson have only relatively recently begun to appear outside of France, and they first entered the UK market in 2011. Until then, the domaine had been content to sell to private customers in France rather than chase export business, a stance that explains why this name is rarely seen in wine shops and has helped it cultivate a loyal following among Burgundy enthusiasts who seek it out.
The vineyards
This family-owned domaine is estimated to be approximately 8.5 hectares in size and is jointly owned by three people. Most of the vineyard is located in the Meursault area, with smaller plots scattered across the Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, Pommard, and Beaune areas.
The most important factor here is the age of the vines. Sous la Velle, one of the lieux-dits (named single vineyards within the village) in Meursault, has an average vine age of over 50 years, with vines planted in 1947, 1952, 1987, and 1990 in nearly equal proportions. This vineyard is located at the foot of a slope at an elevation of approximately 220 meters.
Anne Boisson and her family use no fertilizers or pesticides; instead, they till the vineyard to control weeds and allow air to circulate in the soil. Harvesting is done by hand.
The terroir
Meursault may show a lot of aromas of hazelnut, butter, and subtle honey. Anyone who has tasted a wide range of wines from this region knows that this appellation encompasses a much broader variety of styles, and Boisson's wines sit at the mineral end.
Geographical factors explain this. The village is situated at the foot of the slope leading to the summit of Mont Mélian; this land has been inhabited since the Neolithic era and was later fortified by the Celts and Roman legions. The vineyards stretch along the hillside above the village, and the characteristics of the wine produced are determined by the specific location of the vineyard on the slope.
Thanks to a combination of old vines and a restrained winemaking process, the wines produced under Anne Boisson's name are intense, robust, and possess a distinct mineral character.
Chardonnay first
The Boisson name is built on white wine, and the grape line-up is simple:
- Chardonnay: for Meursaults and Bourgogne Blanc
- Aligoté, Burgundy's other white variety, is bottled as Bourgogne Aligoté
Winemaking
The winemaking process for Anne Boisson follows traditional methods to the letter. The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, then brought back to the estate where they undergo another round of sorting before being placed in fermentation tanks; fermentation takes place using natural yeast, wild yeast already present on the fruit.
Aging takes place in barriques (small oak barrels) for 15 to 18 months, though this period may be extended depending on the vintage. Sous la Velle generally uses about 25% new oak barrels.
There is no fixed ratio between new and used oak barrels. It is determined by the vintage, following the principle that oak aromas should not overshadow the wine's inherent characteristics. For the same reason, bâtonnage, the stirring of the lees that gives many white Burgundies their creamy texture, is kept to a minimum.
Bottling takes place at the domaine without filtration. The total annual production across all of the family's labels is approximately 3,000 to 4,000 cases, which is considered low even by Côte de Beaune standards.
It is worth noting that Pierre Boisson has been friends with Domaine Coche-Dury's Raphaël Coche since their school days, and the two regularly discuss winemaking. Meursault is a village where news travels fast.
The range under her name
Three Meursault lieux-dits carry the Anne Boisson label: Meursault Les Chevalières, Meursault Sous la Velle and Meursault Genevrières. For this domaine, this is less a matter of ambition and more a reflection of the vineyards they have inherited.
Below the cru Meursaults are regional wines such as the single-vineyard Bourgogne Blanc, Les Clous Perrons, Bourgogne Blanc, and Bourgogne Aligoté.
The broader family production lineup expands the range even further to include Rully and Mâconnais, from Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise, as well as red wines under the Pierre Boisson label. When you combine the siblings' and their father's holdings, Boissons covers a surprisingly extensive area for a domaine of this size.
Overall, production volumes are extremely low. This is a practical limitation resulting from dividing the 8.5 hectares into three separate holdings.
Frequently asked questions
Is Anne Boisson the same as Boisson-Vadot?
They come from the same source. The family holdings long known as Domaine Boisson-Vadot are now bottled under the Pierre Boisson and Anne Boisson labels, made side by side in the family cellars.
Where is the domaine based?
In the village of Meursault, in the Côte de Beaune, where the family has been growing vines for over two centuries.
Are the wines organic?
Not certified. But no fertilisers or pesticides are used, weeds are controlled by ploughing, and the harvest is done by hand.
What style of Meursault is this?
The mineral, flinty, tightly built end of the spectrum rather than the rich and buttery end. Old vines, very little new oak and long ageing are the reasons.
