Petrolo
Between Florence, Arezzo and Siena, in a secluded corner of Tuscany that most wine lovers have never even heard of, lies an estate where some of Italy’s most talked-about wines are produced in tranquillity. The Valdarno di Sopra appellation remains little known, but since the 1990s, the Petrolo winery has been successfully promoting it.
History
The land surrounding Petrolo has a long history. In 1716, Cosimo III de’ Medici issued a decree recognising Val d’Arno di Sopra, the hills along the River Arno between Florence and Arezzo, as one of just four areas in Tuscany producing the finest wines and olive oil. In 1834, the agronomist Giorgio Perrin, then owner of ‘Petrolo’ and a member of the Accademia dei Gergofili, singled out a plot which he named ‘Campo Ashutto’ (now known as ‘Boggina’) as a site of exceptional quality for growing Sangiovese.
The Bazzocchi family acquired the estate in the 1940s, and the historic ‘Boggina’ vineyard, the oldest on the estate, was planted in 1947 by Gastone Bazzocchi. Subsequently, management of the estate passed to the family’s grandson, Luca Sanjust. A former artist, he was recognised in the early 1980s as one of Italy’s most promising young artists, after which he returned to take charge of the family estate. It was Luca who transformed ‘Petrolò’ into the estate it is today. His first Merlot vineyard was planted in 1990, and in 1994, following that year’s late harvest, the separate vinification of the Merlot grapes produced a wine of unexpectedly high quality. Thus, the ‘Galatrona’ wine was born.
Vineyards
The estate cultivates 35 hectares within the ‘Valdarno di Sopra’ DOC appellation, bordering the south-eastern edge of Chianti Classico. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of between 250 and 500 metres above sea level, with a planting density of around 5,500 vines per hectare, which ensures an extremely low yield, just 20–25 hectolitres per hectare, and a total wine production of around 650–700 hectolitres per year. The estate comprises more than a dozen separate plots, each with its own name, both old and newly planted, spread amongst vineyards, olive groves and woods.
Terroir
The soils here consist of a mixture of marl, sandstone and shale, typical of the Chianti region; they are sufficiently loose to ensure good drainage, yet rich in minerals. The range of altitudes above sea level, the variety of orientations of the individual plots and the dense surrounding forests all contribute to cooler growing conditions than in most parts of Tuscany, lending the wines freshness and structure.
Grape varieties
Sangiovese and Merlot are the two main varieties; Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia are also grown in smaller quantities on various vineyard plots. New vines continue to be planted, including on an experimental plot of Sangiovese established in collaboration with the University of Milan.
Winemaking
Farming is carried out according to the principles of organic agriculture: without irrigation, without ploughing and with natural grass cover across the entire estate. Yields are deliberately kept low. In the cellar, Petrolo experiments with various ageing vessels: French oak barrels for ‘Galatron’, large traditional botti for ‘Torrione’ and, most notably, terracotta amphorae for ‘Boggina A’, a deliberate nod to the Etruscan roots of winemaking in this valley, where Etruscan artefacts have been discovered on the estate’s grounds.
Wines
The estate’s flagship wine is ‘Galatrona’, a 100% Merlot from a vineyard planted in 1990, which is often compared to the great Merlots of Pomerol. ‘Torrione’ is a Sangiovese-based blend that has become the benchmark for this appellation.
Then there is the “Campo Lusso”, first released in 2004 and made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon which has been aged for 20 months in new French oak barrels. Very limited production of less than a thousend bottles.
“Bòggina” is a wine that comes in three different varieties, including a white wine.
“Bòggina A” is a wine, first released in 2011, which is made of 100% Sangiovese and vinified in large “terracotta amphorae”. Only 1500 bottles are produced every year.
“Bòggina B” (from 2014) is a white wine solely made from Trebbiano grapes, aged on French barriques. Only 600 bottles (and magnums) are produced annually.
“Bòggina C” is made from 100% Sangiovese grapes and aged for 16 – 18 months in French oak barrels. First year of production was 2006, although the vines were already planted in 1947. 10.000 bottles are produced every year.
“Bòggina”, “Campo Lusso” and “Galatrona” are the true “Grands Crus” of Petrolo. The “Sanpetrolo” wine is the rarest wine produced at the estate. A sort of “Vin Santo” or “Passito”., which ages up to 9 years in small oak barrels. Only 600 half bottles are made from 50% White Malvasia and 50% Trebbiano.
Regions
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