Honivogl is the Gruner Veltliner that Franz Hirtzberger bottles at Smaragd level, it is the ripest category within the Wachau classification and ranks one level above Federspiel, which includes wines with an alcohol content of 11.5-12.5%. During the 2025 growing season, relatively cool and humid weather persisted throughout the July period, but it warmed up during August, and irrigation was not required. Although rain continued throughout September, there were no torrential downpours, and initial yield projections were revised downward. The harvest was intentionally delayed.
The nose offers salty and briny notes, with hints of green pear skin, followed by a subtle, tangy aroma reminiscent of yeast and bread. It is concentrated yet vibrant, firm and finely made rather than heavy, with a long-lasting finish. It is best enjoyed between 2029 and 2055. When opening a young bottle, decanting is recommended.
Vinous (96)
The 2025 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl is not a site name and contains fruit from the foot of the slopes of Axpoint and Singerriedl. It was deliberately harvested late to achieve as much concentration as possible. On the nose, savory yeast shows a miso-like tanginess, while arugula, moss, lichen and green pear peel add complexity. The palate is reminiscent of russet pear peel set against a yeasty, saline character. This Honivogl is lovely, energetic and sprightly, with tension and, dare I say it in this house, a svelte outline. It reverberates on the long finish.
