Marcobrunn is one of the most talked-about sites in the Rheingau, and this parcel is leased to Günter Künstler by the Schönborn estate. The 2021 vintage is a dry wine made exclusively from the Riesling variety and bottled as Grosses Gewächs, with Weingut Künstler producing the entire vintage from Riesling grapes.
It was a cool year. During the long rainy period, daytime temperatures often pushed 20°C, accelerating the onset of downy mildew and reducing yields. Thanks to the reduced yield, the remaining grapes ripened better during the October and November periods, and their concentrated flavors come through beautifully.
It is best enjoyed through 2034. Decanting is recommended when opening a young bottle.
James Suckling (99)
A full-throttle dry riesling with monumental stature and concentration, but there’s nothing monolithic about it. Amazing apricot aroma, but also a ton of dried-herb and earthy notes that makes this a truly spectacular wine. Just doesn’t want to stop. The first vintage of this wine. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
Jancis Robinson (17.5)
Really lively and racy. Well managed in this cooler vintage. Sleek and super-refreshing but with real concentration of flavour. Very long.
Falstaff (96)
Day one: a comparatively deep colour indicates very ripe grapes. On the nose: tropical fruit, pineapple, mango, quince. On the palate, the wine is slimmer and more concentrated than the opulent aroma would suggest. A strong dose of phenolics and a pithy acidity dominate, the wine is characterised by freshness and tension, very dense, still completely closed. Day two: orange confit, large wooden barrel, honey. Immensely mineral on the palate, like a block of lime and iron, almost electrifying. What pressure! Day 3: A full-bodied aroma: fruit, savouriness, mineral and balsamic notes. Full on the palate, still full of tension, but no longer astringent.
