Un peu moins de quatre hectares de Viognier, plantés dans un amphithéâtre exposé plein sud dans le nord du Rhône, constituent l’intégralité de l’appellation Château-Grillet. Le Château-Grillet 2022 est un vin blanc sec issu de ce seul terroir, où la saison de croissance 2022 a été caniculaire. Les vendanges ont débuté le 27 août. La Côte-Rôtie voisine a reçu un peu plus de pluie, ce qui donne une idée de la sécheresse qui régnait dans ce coin de la vallée.
Le domaine appartient à François Pinault, avec Frédéric Engerer comme gérant. Il conserve sa propre appellation, ce qui est rare en France et inhabituel pour un domaine de cette taille.
Il peut être dégusté dès maintenant après une heure de décantation. À déguster de préférence jusqu’en 2038.
Robert Parker (95)
The 2022 Chateau Grillet comes from one of the estate's earliest harvests, with grapes picked on 27 August. Evoking a complex, elegant bouquet of almond blossoms, exotic notes, violet, white flowers, ripe pear and spices, it's followed by a full-bodied, dense and rich palate with some purity, a racy spine, a fleshy core of fruit and a long, pure finish accented by delicate dry extracts and gastronomic bitterness. Exceptionally saline and ethereal, this vintage captures the satiny elegance of this renowned terroir, offering a notably tense and pure profile typical of early harvests in Condrieu. Whether this signifies a shift toward a more refined style or reflects the characteristics of the vintage will become more evident in the ensuing years. This vintage would benefit from 2 to 3 years in the cellar to fully develop its potential.
Vinous (97)
The 2022 Château-Grillet is a masterpiece of elegance, with crystalline aromas of jasmine, lemon flesh, cedar, verbena tea and white flowers. It dances on the palate with precision and nuanced detail. A phenolic kick adds freshness to the laser-focused, incredibly long finish. Ethereal and light on its feet, the 2022 defies the hot growing season, delivering a one-of-a-kind Viognier experience.
Decanter (95)
At the moment of tasting the nose was surprisingly restrained, but beneath that quiet exterior lies a huge wine. The palate reveals remarkable phenolic grip and a touch of bitterness wrapped around a cool blue mineral core. It’s almost spherical in shape – hard and structured at the centre, fleshy and rounded around the outside. Layered and powerful. Spice lingers on the finish, leaving a cooling sensation. A monumental Viognier from the tiny Château-Grillet monopole.
