Just under four hectares of Viognier, planted in a south-facing amphitheater in the northern Rhône, make up the entire appellation of Château-Grillet. Château Grillet 2022 is a dry white from that single site, and 2022 was a hot growing season there. Picking started on 27 August. Neighbouring Côte-Rôtie caught a little more rain, which gives some sense of how dry things were in this corner of the valley.
The estate belongs to François Pinault, with Frédéric Engerer as administrator. It remains its own appellation, which is rare in France and unusual for a property this small.
Drinkable now with an hour in the decanter. Best enjoyed until 2038.
Robert Parker (95)
The 2022 Chateau Grillet comes from one of the estate's earliest harvests, with grapes picked on 27 August. Evoking a complex, elegant bouquet of almond blossoms, exotic notes, violet, white flowers, ripe pear and spices, it's followed by a full-bodied, dense and rich palate with some purity, a racy spine, a fleshy core of fruit and a long, pure finish accented by delicate dry extracts and gastronomic bitterness. Exceptionally saline and ethereal, this vintage captures the satiny elegance of this renowned terroir, offering a notably tense and pure profile typical of early harvests in Condrieu. Whether this signifies a shift toward a more refined style or reflects the characteristics of the vintage will become more evident in the ensuing years. This vintage would benefit from 2 to 3 years in the cellar to fully develop its potential.
Vinous (97)
The 2022 Château-Grillet is a masterpiece of elegance, with crystalline aromas of jasmine, lemon flesh, cedar, verbena tea and white flowers. It dances on the palate with precision and nuanced detail. A phenolic kick adds freshness to the laser-focused, incredibly long finish. Ethereal and light on its feet, the 2022 defies the hot growing season, delivering a one-of-a-kind Viognier experience.
Decanter (95)
At the moment of tasting the nose was surprisingly restrained, but beneath that quiet exterior lies a huge wine. The palate reveals remarkable phenolic grip and a touch of bitterness wrapped around a cool blue mineral core. It’s almost spherical in shape – hard and structured at the centre, fleshy and rounded around the outside. Layered and powerful. Spice lingers on the finish, leaving a cooling sensation. A monumental Viognier from the tiny Château-Grillet monopole.