Fontodi
Fontodi is one of the most respected names in Chianti Classico in Tuscany and one of those estates whose wines are invariably mentioned whenever serious connoisseurs of Italian wine debate which producers set the highest standards. It is situated in the very heart of Panzano in Chianti, in a natural south-facing amphitheatre known as the Conca d’Oro (‘Golden Shell’), widely regarded as one of the finest plots of land in the whole of Chianti Classico.
History
The estate has been cultivated since the days of the Roman Empire, but its modern history began in 1968 when it was purchased by Dino Manetti. The Manetti family had no connection to winemaking; they were involved in the production of terracotta. For around three centuries, the family had been making Tuscan terracotta tiles, urns and amphorae at their Ferrone factory near Impruneta, and initially Dino was simply looking for a country house. The vineyards were part of this property.
His son Giovanni took over the winery in 1980 and has been running it ever since. He is currently also president of the Chianti Classico Consortium, which gives an idea of just how highly he is regarded in the region. In 1981, inspired by the growing popularity of the first ‘Super Tuscans’, Giovanni created Flaccianello della Pieve, a 100% Sangiovese wine aged in barriques, which quickly became a benchmark.
Vineyards and terroir
The estate covers around 130 hectares, of which approximately 70 are planted with vines. Almost the entire estate is situated in the Conca d’Oro at altitudes ranging from 350 to 480 metres, on the southern slopes. The soils here are what the Tuscans call ‘Scaglia Toscana’, a mixture of galestro (layered clayey shale) and alberese (dense limestone). These soils are stony, well-drained and not particularly fertile, which is exactly what the Sangiovese variety needs to produce concentrated, structured wines.
The high altitude means cool nights even during the hot summer, which helps preserve acidity and aromatic qualities. The entire estate has been certified organic for many years, and the Manetti family goes beyond what the regulations require: they produce their own compost, plant cover crops between the rows and avoid the use of external fertilisers wherever possible.
Grapes and winemaking
Sangiovese is at the heart of everything Fontodi does, accounting for around 90% of the vineyards. There are also small plantings of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano. The vines are trained using the Guyot system. The grapes are harvested by hand and sorted before being sent to the cellar. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts. Things get more interesting from there.
The red wines are aged in a mix of French oak barriques, larger barrels and, increasingly, in terracotta amphorae made at the family’s own factory, where they are stored in the cellar at a constant temperature of 14 °C and 80% humidity. Giovanni uses very lightly toasted oak to preserve the purity and brightness of the fruit notes.
Wines
The flagship wine is Flaccianello della Pieve, a single-vineyard wine made from 100% Sangiovese, which consistently features on lists of the world’s best red wines.
Chianti Classico is a mass-produced wine and the benchmark for the entire appellation. Vigna del Sorbo, made from vines planted in 1963, is a Gran Selezione with serious ageing potential, as is the more recent Terrazze San Leolino.
There is also Filetta di Lamole from high-altitude plots, Case Via made from Syrah and Pinot Noir, Meriggio made from Sauvignon Blanc, the amphora-aged Dino, and a beautifully crafted Vin Santo.
