Le Montrachet 2022 de Vincent Girardin est un vin issu d’une saison de croissance chaude et sèche en Côte de Beaune. Les vignes ont certes été exposées à la chaleur, mais leurs racines, qui s’enfoncent profondément dans les coteaux calcaires et marneux entre Puligny-Montrachet et Chassagne, ont empêché la saveur du Chardonnay de s’affaiblir. Les techniques de vinification de Girardin jouent ici un rôle essentiel. Celles-ci comprennent l’utilisation de levures naturelles, un pressurage doux et un élevage en fûts avec un recours modéré au chêne neuf. En conséquence, le millésime 2022 possède une densité qui ne semble pas lourde. Il est recommandé de laisser le vin « reposer » quelque temps. À déguster entre 2028 et 2050.
Vinous (93)
The 2022 Montrachet Grand Cru did leave me a bit perplexed as it seems to lack the complexity of the Bâtard or Bienvenue. The very attractive fruit, yellow plum and nectarine, is missing a sense of mineralité. The palate is quite rich on the entry, with sun-kissed tropical fruit, chamomile, and almond, and impressive depth on the finish. You could almost describe this as a "punters' Montrachet," which might be a good thing. Personally, I find the Bâtard more cerebral.
Burghound (96)
A reticent if discreetly beautiful nose reflects notes of green apple, just sliced citrus, white flowers and a lovely array of spice nuances, especially anise. The highly seductive, even opulent, big-bodied flavors are almost thick thanks to the abundant dry extract that also buffers the powerful, serious and intensely mineral-driven finish where a similar hint of bitter zest appears. This is presently an almost impenetrable block and to my taste this is best purchased with the intent to cellar it for at least a decade.
Jasper Morris (98)
Two barrels made. A glowing pale lemon and lime colour. Though the barrels are not new they still lend a touch of coconut to this sublimely opulent Montrachet. The riches are properly balanced on the palate though, with waves of perfectly ripe fruit sweeping through the mouth. Some tropical notes, and lower in acidity to taste, thanks to the power of the fruit.