The 2022 Montrachet from Vincent Girardin is a wine produced during a warm and dry growing season in the Côte de Beaune. The vines were exposed to the heat, but their roots, which penetrate deep into the limestone and marl slopes between Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne, prevented the Chardonnay’s flavor from becoming diluted. Girardin’s winemaking techniques play a key role here. These include the use of natural yeasts, gentle pressing, and aging in barrels with moderate use of new oak. As a result, the 2022 vintage possesses a density that does not feel heavy. It is recommended to let the wine “rest” for a while. Enjoy it between 2028 and 2050.
Vinous (93)
The 2022 Montrachet Grand Cru did leave me a bit perplexed as it seems to lack the complexity of the Bâtard or Bienvenue. The very attractive fruit, yellow plum and nectarine, is missing a sense of mineralité. The palate is quite rich on the entry, with sun-kissed tropical fruit, chamomile, and almond, and impressive depth on the finish. You could almost describe this as a "punters' Montrachet," which might be a good thing. Personally, I find the Bâtard more cerebral.
Burghound (96)
A reticent if discreetly beautiful nose reflects notes of green apple, just sliced citrus, white flowers and a lovely array of spice nuances, especially anise. The highly seductive, even opulent, big-bodied flavors are almost thick thanks to the abundant dry extract that also buffers the powerful, serious and intensely mineral-driven finish where a similar hint of bitter zest appears. This is presently an almost impenetrable block and to my taste this is best purchased with the intent to cellar it for at least a decade.
Jasper Morris (98)
Two barrels made. A glowing pale lemon and lime colour. Though the barrels are not new they still lend a touch of coconut to this sublimely opulent Montrachet. The riches are properly balanced on the palate though, with waves of perfectly ripe fruit sweeping through the mouth. Some tropical notes, and lower in acidity to taste, thanks to the power of the fruit.