Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru cuvee Renaissence 2023 Domaine Tortochot

Tasting Notes

Bright red cherry, some raspberry and something darker, almost streaky. There are hints of violets and rose petals. On the palate, the 2023 shows the generosity of this vintage. The tannins are medium-heavy, fine-grained, and the savory, earthy finish brings everything back to life. It's drinkable already, but it will get even better after a few years of aging.

Grape Varieties

100% Pinot Noir. Not surprising, since this is a Côte de Nuits. So why does Pinot Noir make a difference here? Morey-Saint-Denis is located between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, and Pinot Noir inherits the characteristics of both. Tortochot removes most of the stems, but in warmer years, such as 2023, it retains about 25% of the whole bunches.

Cellaring Potential

Drink between 2027 and 2040. The tannins are firm but delicate, and the acidity is sufficient to sustain the wine for a decade and a half. It should first be put in the cellar for three to four years to integrate with oak; store horizontally at 12-14°C, away from light.

The Producer

Tortochot is one of the most under-the-radar domaines of Gevrey-Chambertin, despite owning four Grands Crus, including Chambertin. So why has there been a "revival"? The Morey-Saint-Denis vineyards were leased to Domaine Georges Lignier for 18 years and Chantal Tortochot, who succeeded her father in the late 1990s, took them back when the lease expired in 1996. The naming of this cuvée signifies its rebirth. We consider Tortochot to be one of the most valuable addresses in the Côte de Nuits.

Terroir & Climate

Morey-Saint-Denis sits on Bajocian and Bathonian limestone with bands of marl, and the Class 1 vineyard plots are along the mid-slopes at an elevation of 250-300 meters. Why it matters. The limestone gives Pinot Noir minerality, while the marl and clay give fleshiness. The east-facing slopes receive the morning sun. The result is a wine that bridges the gap between the power of Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, with tenacious but silky tannins.

Winemaking

At Domaine Tortochot, the fruit is chilled to around 10°C and undergoes a week of cold maceration before fermentation. What is this done for? To gently bring out the colors and aromas, and to do so before the yeast starts to move. Only indigenous yeasts are used and gently extracted on a pneumatic press. Aged in French oak for 12-14 months, of which about 50% new oak for the 1er Cru. No fining, no filtration, certified organic since 2013, chemical free since 2005.

Food Pairing

Morey's firm tannins and red fruit core favor Burgundian-style cooking. Some ideas:

• Classic coq au vin, where the wine reacts with the sauce.
• Roast duck with cherry or blackberry jus.
• Jambon Persillé, an appetizer whose saltiness complements the fruit.
• Époisses, if I may say so
• the funk of washed rind harmonizes with earthy notes.

Serve at 16-17°C. If drinking the wine young, decant for 30 minutes before serving.