Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru cuvee Renaissence 2021 Domaine Tortochot

Tasting Notes

The first sensation is lift. Red cherry, cranberry, a snap of violets and a cool, slightly stemmy note characteristic of the 2021. The palate is medium-bodied and supple, with the fine tannins that Morey-Saint-Denis is famous for. There is a forest floor underneath. The finish is long and linear, more mineral than fruity. Best to give it time.

Grape Varieties

100% Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir is a transmitter of terroir, and a cool vintage like this reveals the terroir without the mask of overripe fruit. What remains is the soil history: limestone, marl and a dash of iron. In warmer years, Tortochot uses about 25% whole bunches, but in 2021, they seem to have removed a lot of stems due to stem ripening issues.

Cellaring Potential

Drink between 2027 and 2040; 2021 features bright acidity and fine-grained tannins, two elements that contribute to Pinot Noir aging; suitable for drinking earlier than the 2020 or 2019, but will keep for another five to six years beyond those vintages; store at 12-14°C; truffle and undergrowth aromas will emerge after 10 years.

The Producer

Tortochot is one of the most under-the-radar domaines of Gevrey-Chambertin, despite owning four Grands Crus, including Chambertin. So why has there been a "revival"? The Morey-Saint-Denis vineyards were leased to Domaine Georges Lignier for 18 years and Chantal Tortochot, who succeeded her father in the late 1990s, took them back when the lease expired in 1996. The naming of this cuvée signifies its rebirth. We consider Tortochot to be one of the most valuable addresses in the Côte de Nuits.

Terroir & Climate

Morey-Saint-Denis sits on Bajocian and Bathonian limestone with bands of marl, and the Class 1 vineyard plots are along the mid-slopes at an elevation of 250-300 meters. Why it matters. The limestone gives Pinot Noir minerality, while the marl and clay give fleshiness. The east-facing slopes receive the morning sun. The result is a wine that bridges the gap between the power of Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, with tenacious but silky tannins.

Winemaking

At Domaine Tortochot, the fruit is chilled to around 10°C and undergoes a week of cold maceration before fermentation. What is this done for? To gently bring out the colors and aromas, and to do so before the yeast starts to move. Only indigenous yeasts are used and gently extracted on a pneumatic press. Aged in French oak for 12-14 months, of which about 50% new oak for the 1er Cru. No fining, no filtration, certified organic since 2013, chemical free since 2005.

Food Pairing

Morey's firm tannins and red fruit core favor Burgundian-style cooking. Some ideas:

• Classic coq au vin, where the wine reacts with the sauce.
• Roast duck with cherry or blackberry jus.
• Jambon Persillé, an appetizer whose saltiness complements the fruit.
• Époisses, if I may say so
• the funk of washed rind harmonizes with earthy notes.

Serve at 16-17°C. If drinking the wine young, decant for 30 minutes before serving.