2020 was het derde opeenvolgende jaar met een warm en droog oogstjaar in Bourgondië: de oogst begon eerder dan normaal en de druiven waren klein en geconcentreerd. Voor de „Corton-Charlemagne“-wijn van Bonneau du Martray betekende dit dat de Chardonnay-druiven op de bovenste hellingen van de Corton-heuvel op volle rijpheid werden geoogst, terwijl de zuurgraad veel beter behouden bleef dan velen hadden verwacht. Daardoor bleek de wijn intenser te zijn dan de jaargangen uit de koelere jaren van het afgelopen decennium, terwijl de voor Bonneau du Martray kenmerkende zoute en frisse smaak onveranderd bleef. De wijn is bedoeld voor langdurige rijping en het loont de moeite om er geduldig op te wachten.
Robert Parker (97)
As I wrote earlier this year, Bonneau du Martray's 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, peach and nectarine mingled with white flowers, clear honey, nutmeg, mint and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's bright and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core and a long, saline finish. Seamless, intense and complete, this elegant, precise white Burgundy is built for the cellar.
Vinous (95)
The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is interesting to taste, as it is starting to move into its next phase of life. Some of its early richness has softened, revealing an airy, taut white endowed with notable precision. Dried lemon peel, sage, mint, pine and crushed rocks open nicely in the glass. There’s lovely subtlety and nuance to explore. I would not open the 2020 yet, as it is very clearly in a transitional state. This was the first vintage in which the domaine incorporated larger 350L and 500L barrels.
Burghound (95)
An airy, cool and layered nose features notes of green apple, white flowers and discreet hints of mineral reduction and wood. The almost painfully intense, sleek and tension-filled flavors display beautiful cut and minerality while delivering superb length on the chiseled, linear and austere finale. This is an old school CC that is rich and ripe yet it cuts-like-a-knife. Impressive.
Jasper Morris (97)
The analysis looks perfectly balanced at 13.35% alcohol and pH 3.15. This has been racked but not sulphured since the harvest. Primrose colour, the nose shows a little heaviness and needs freshening up soon with a sulphur adjustment. The nose suggests yellow fruit and a certain thickness of texture. Ripe to baked apple notes. The palate however shows wonderful potential with excellent grip due in part to a little youthful bitterness. Still the apple theme but more important to consider the intensity and the structure. Also the length is what it should be. I have to be cautious given the current stage of development.
