2020 marked the third consecutive year of a warm and dry vintage in Burgundy: the harvest began earlier than usual, and the grapes were small and concentrated. For the “Corton-Charlemagne” wine from Bonneau du Martray, this meant that the Chardonnay grapes were harvested from the upper slopes of the Corton hill at full ripeness, while acidity was preserved much better than many had expected. As a result, the wine turned out to be more intense than the vintages from the cooler years of the past decade, yet the salty and crisp flavor characteristic of Bonneau du Martray remained unchanged. The wine is designed for long-term aging, and it is worth waiting patiently for.
Robert Parker (97)
As I wrote earlier this year, Bonneau du Martray's 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, peach and nectarine mingled with white flowers, clear honey, nutmeg, mint and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's bright and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core and a long, saline finish. Seamless, intense and complete, this elegant, precise white Burgundy is built for the cellar.
Vinous (95)
The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is interesting to taste, as it is starting to move into its next phase of life. Some of its early richness has softened, revealing an airy, taut white endowed with notable precision. Dried lemon peel, sage, mint, pine and crushed rocks open nicely in the glass. There’s lovely subtlety and nuance to explore. I would not open the 2020 yet, as it is very clearly in a transitional state. This was the first vintage in which the domaine incorporated larger 350L and 500L barrels.
Burghound (95)
An airy, cool and layered nose features notes of green apple, white flowers and discreet hints of mineral reduction and wood. The almost painfully intense, sleek and tension-filled flavors display beautiful cut and minerality while delivering superb length on the chiseled, linear and austere finale. This is an old school CC that is rich and ripe yet it cuts-like-a-knife. Impressive.
Jasper Morris (97)
The analysis looks perfectly balanced at 13.35% alcohol and pH 3.15. This has been racked but not sulphured since the harvest. Primrose colour, the nose shows a little heaviness and needs freshening up soon with a sulphur adjustment. The nose suggests yellow fruit and a certain thickness of texture. Ripe to baked apple notes. The palate however shows wonderful potential with excellent grip due in part to a little youthful bitterness. Still the apple theme but more important to consider the intensity and the structure. Also the length is what it should be. I have to be cautious given the current stage of development.
