Chateau Cheval Blanc 1998

Tasting Notes

The nose opens with classic Cheval Blanc characteristics of dark cherry and cassis from the Merlot, complemented by grassy nuances from the Cabernet Franc. Subtle notes of cedar and graphite minerals and violets spread with the air. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly balanced for a young grape. The tannins are firm but refined, not aggressive. Fruit, oak and structure are in harmony without competition. The finish has the elegance of St. Emilion, with dark chocolate and subtle tobacco nuances. At 25 years old, this wine shows a complexity that will only emerge with proper aging.

Grape Varieties

What makes Château Cheval Blanc unusual on the Right Bank is the high percentage of Cabernet Franc. The blend usually includes

• 57% Cabernet Franc
• 40% Merlot
• 3% Cabernet Sauvignon

But why use so much Cabernet Franc when most Saint-Emilion farmers rely on Merlot? The answer lies in Cheval Blanc's unique gravelly sandy soils, which are well-drained enough to ensure that the Cabernet Franc ripens reliably. The high percentage of Cabernet Franc gives the wine a complexity and structure not found in pure Merlot. This is one of the most characteristic approaches to blending in Bordeaux.

Cellaring Potential

This 1998 wine drinks beautifully now. The tannins are much softer than in its youth. Given Cheval Blanc's record of long aging, the peak of drinking time is until 2035, maybe even longer. The Cabernet Franc provides the foundation for long-term aging, while the Merlot makes the wine more approachable. Proper cellar conditions (55-60°F, minimum light) will preserve elegance. Over the next 10 years, expect the fruit to recede a bit and the tertiary notes of leather and earth to become more pronounced.

The Producer

Bernard Arnault and Baron Albert Frère have owned this 37-hectare estate since 1998 and have transformed it with a futuristic cellar completed in 2011. But the real story began in 1832, when Jean-Jacques Ducasse harvested the main vineyard. Today, Technical Director Pierre-Olivier Clouet manages the vines, which average more than 45 years old in the unique gravel and sand soils. Best of Wines has seen the estate consistently produce wines with extraordinary aging potential. This is why we believe Cheval Blanc is a must-have for serious Bordeaux collectors.

Terroir & Vineyard

Cheval Blanc is situated on exceptional terroir for a Saint-Emilion. Rather than the limestone plateau that most right bank estates call home, it is the gravelly sandy soil typical of Pomerol. This well-drained soil structure is the reason why Cabernet Franc thrives here while it struggles elsewhere in the appellation. 8,000 vines per hectare planted at a density that avoids root competition and concentrates flavors. In addition, mature vines, 45 years old or more, dig deep into the soil in search of nutrients and water. The result is a powerful, weightless, refined tannin structure.

Winemaking

Cheval Blanc is aged for 15-18 months in French oak barrels, usually 50-80% new, depending on the strength of the vintage. Both stainless steel and concrete tanks are used to allow the grapes from different sites to develop their individual traits before blending. Gravel and sand soils drain quickly, allowing flavors to naturally concentrate. This means less intervention is required in the cellar. The average age of the vines is 45 years, giving the wine a complexity that younger vines lack.

Food Pairing

This structure calls for richness. The combination of duck breast and cherry sauce is perfect: the fat softens the tannins and the fruitiness echoes the dark berry notes of the wine itself. However, game such as guinea fowl and pheasant should not be overlooked. The earthy minerality of the wine enhances the complexity of the meat. Mature Comté or aged Roquefort would go well with cheese. The acidity of the wine cuts through the richness and the depth matches the strength of the cheese; decant within an hour and serve at 16-18°C.