Ce soleil tardif revêt ici une importance capitale. Grâce à lui, le Cabernet Sauvignon a atteint le niveau de maturité nécessaire sur ce sol graveleux, et le vin présente ces tanins fermes mais délicats dont le domaine est si fier, sans jamais paraître lourd ni grossier. Le Merlot, le Petit Verdot et le Cabernet Franc viennent compléter ce profil.
La sélection constitue l’autre volet de cette histoire. Seuls environ 36 % de la récolte sont utilisés pour le Grand Vin ; le reste est soit transféré vers le Pavillon Rouge, soit totalement exclu de l’assemblage. Le vin est ensuite élevé pendant 21 mois en moyenne dans des fûts de chêne français neufs (petits fûts fabriqués en France).
C’est un vin qui donnera le meilleur de lui-même pendant longtemps. Il se dégustera idéalement jusqu’en 2050.
Robert Parker (95)
The 2014 Château Margaux represents 36% of the year’s total production and is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Affording the glass five to ten minutes to open, the aromatics are very similar to those expressed out of barrel, those dark cherries and violets, tightly wound at first but unfurling beautifully and seemingly with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin and it appears to have fomented a little more finesse during its élevage. There is wonderful mineral tension and dash of spiciness on the persistent finish. There remains some tightness here, the implication that this is a Château Margaux determined to give long-term pleasure. Therefore, do not be afraid to give it a decade in the cellar.
Winespectator (95)
This is solidly packed, with layers of warm fig bread, plum compote and black currant preserves, carried by a silky yet substantial structure. As the fruit plays out, the anise, black tea and singed alder notes in the background come into clearer focus, giving this remarkable range. Everything glides beautifully through the suave, gently toasty finish.
James Suckling (97)
The purity of cabernet sauvignon fruit is what impresses here. Subtle and energetic plum and currant aromas follow through to a gorgeously harmonized palate of wonderful fruit and an ultra-long finish. Current bush and light earth adds to the complexity.
Jancis Robinson (17.5)
Tasted blind. Deep garnet. Fragrant with dark-red fruit, subtly sweet and inviting. A touch leafy/minty. Fine, almost chalky, tannins, a little leaner than the Latour and Haut-Brion but elegant and harmonious.
Wine Enthusiast (97)
There is a sense of pure juicy black-currant fruit that shoots through this great wine. With tannins that are firm while not a jot too much, the wine is crisp, packed with fruit and set for many years of aging. It is beautiful, fruity and intensely structured.
