Testamatta 2021 Bibi Graetz

Tasting Notes

Initial impressions include cherry and crushed raspberry, with underlying notes of dried herbs, leather, and a barely perceptible hint of iron. The 2021 vintage possesses the rich flavor and almost wild character that have become Testamatta’s hallmark, yet it has a firmer structure than the 2020 vintage. The tannins are fine and persistent, the acidity is bright (a characteristic of Sangiovese grown at high altitudes), and the finish lingers with notes of tea leaves and orange zest. If you plan to drink the wine right away, we recommend letting it breathe in a decanter. However, it’s even better to wait until it has had time to age.

Grape Varieties

“Testamatta” is a pure Sangiovese grown on five separate plots planted with old vines ranging in age from 35 to 80 years. Since 2015, Bibi Graetz has gradually transitioned to 100% Sangiovese, removing the Canaiolo and Colorino varieties from the blend, varieties that previously gave the wine its roundness. It is the individual character of each plot that plays the role that, in other regions, is fulfilled by the varieties used for blending:

• Vincigliata (galestro soil), located at an altitude of 280 meters, gives the wine structure;
• Lamole, located at an altitude of 600 meters, adds lightness and floral notes;
• Montefili, located at an altitude of 400 meters, occupies an intermediate position

Cellaring Potential

Best enjoyed between 2024 and 2045. The 2021 vintage can be enjoyed right now if the wine is allowed to breathe in a decanter; however, judging by its tannic structure and acidity, it will need at least another 5 years to fully reveal its true potential. Store at a temperature of 12–14 °C. Over the next 20 years, the aroma of sour cherries is expected to deepen into notes of dried figs, while the herbal nuances will evolve into earthy aromas and umami.

The Producer

Bibi Graetz entered the world of wine almost by accident. A graduate of the Florence Academy of Fine Arts and the son of a sculptor of Swiss-Israeli descent, he inherited the lease to an old vineyard on the family estate in Castello di Vincigliata and, rather than giving it up, decided to take up winemaking. The first vintage was released in 2000 and immediately attracted attention. The winery is located in the building of the former Hotel Aurora on the main square in Fiesole, and Graetz still lives there. Since there are no other producers in Tuscany who use such unique winemaking methods, these wines are always in stock at our store.

Terroir & Climate

The grapes for Testamatta are sourced from vineyards scattered throughout Tuscany, but the main one is Vincigliata, located directly below the family's historic castle at an elevation of 280 meters. Its soil is galestro, a brittle limestone-clay shale mixed with sand and small pebbles. Galestro provides good drainage, which forces the vines to work harder, resulting in a more intense flavor in the grapes. In addition, the inclusion of grapes from Lamore—located at an elevation of 600 meters in the very heart of Chianti Classico—gives the Sangiovese the acidity necessary for ageing and a high level of aromatic intensity. The earthy aroma that fills the glass and the wine’s slightly wild character are precisely what these soils impart.

Winemaking

At Graetz, the harvest is carried out by hand, and to ensure the optimal moment for each plot is not missed, up to 8 harvests may take place on a single plot during the season. The grapes are sorted twice: in the vineyard and at the winery. Fermentation is carried out exclusively using natural yeasts: for small plots, in open 225-liter barriques (small French oak barrels), and for larger ones, in larger barrels or stainless steel tanks. Each plot is managed in complete isolation from fermentation through aging, and blending takes place at the final stage. This is precisely why each vintage has a flavor that reflects the climatic conditions of that year and does not conform to a predetermined recipe.

Food Pairing

Sangiovese’s acidity calls for richness. The traditional Tuscan dish “Bistecca alla Fiorentina” (a thick bone-in steak, crispy on the outside and “red” on the inside) is a classic pairing that goes perfectly with this wine. Even more delightful is the pairing of pappardelle with wild boar ragout: the rich flavor of the game harmonizes perfectly with the wine’s savory notes. After the meal, try aged “Pecorino Toscano” with a small amount of honey. Serve at 18–20 °C. Decant the wine 60–90 minutes before serving.