Robert Parker (95)
Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch.
Winespectator (94)
Beautiful, fresh aromas of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon bush. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that add brightness and energy to the wine. This is definitely following the new wave of crunchy, vivid Tuscany sangioveses, which emphasize drinkability and transparency.
Jancis Robinson (17)
Just mid ruby. Very youthful and a little embryonic, with notes of brooding yet fresh red fruit. Really needs time to open up and, with aeration, becomes a complex amalgam of crushed, fresh cherry and cranberry with powdery tannins. Super-elegant and long and wired with ripe acidity.
Vinous (94)
Dusty, floral and lifted with flinty crushed stone, peppery herbs and tart raspberry, the 2020 Rosso Testamatta makes itself known in the glass. This is finessed and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried across seamlessly silky textures. While structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed as a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a darling. I expect that bottle age will bring more flesh to the palate, but even without it, the 2020 Testamatta, a varietal Sangiovese, is gorgeous.
Decanter (94)
he addition of a further 12ha of vines – the first instance of owned rather than leased vineyards for Bibi Graetz – saw production in 2020 leap to around 150,000 bottles, and the wine was made in the new winery in Fiesole too. However, Bibi explains that 2020 was ‘not an easy vintage...the first of three hot vintages‘. It has a darker character than the 2015, with dusty red and black cherry aromas and hints of balsam and chocolate. Creamy, velvety and vertical with a lovely cherry character and an earthy background, it has plenty of freshness working the sides of the cheeks, but needs more time to uncoil.
BOW (8.50)
