Testamatta

The Producer

Graetz was born to a Swiss-Israeli sculptor and a Norwegian mother and grew up in a family of artists. To this day, he still hand-paints all the labels himself. The winery is located in the former “Aurora” hotel on the main square in Fiesole, where he also lives.

What sets him apart from others is his refusal to follow the rules of appellation of origin. Around 2015, he gradually transitioned the “Testamatta” blend to 100% Sangiovese, eliminating the Canaiolo and Colorino varieties that had been used previously. We’ve included this producer in our selection because there are virtually no other winemakers in Tuscany who combine old Sangiovese vines with such artistic stubbornness, and the results of his work are truly outstanding.

History & Heritage

The Graetz family owned the historic Castello di Vincigliata estate, located in the hills of Fiesole. In the second half of the 1990s, as the deadline for renewing the vineyard lease approached, Graetz had two options: either leave or take action. Graetz decided to take action. The result was the 2000 “Testamatta” vintage, which caused a huge sensation.

This winery (officially known as Azienda Agricola Testamatta) has grown to cover an area of about 80 hectares, spread throughout Tuscany. In 2020, Graetz acquired another 90 hectares of land behind the winery in Fiesole. The style of the wine itself has also evolved alongside these changes, and the transition to using 100% Sangiovese, which began around 2015,has been particularly notable.

Terroir & Climate

“Testamatta” is not a single-vineyard wine. It is made from old Sangiovese vines ranging in age from 35 to 80 years, growing on five plots in different parts of Tuscany, located at significantly varying altitudes. Vincigliata is situated at an elevation of about 280 meters above sea level, and the soil here consists of galestro (crumbled limestone and clayey shale mixed with sand and stones, common throughout Tuscany). The “Lamole” vineyard rises to an elevation of 600 meters in the cool central part of Chianti Classico. The “Montefili” vineyard is located at an elevation of 400 meters. The “Londa” vineyard, located north of Florence, and the vineyard south of Siena give the wine a warmer and softer fruity flavor.

The goal of this wide distribution of vineyards is to achieve balance. From the high-altitude, cool areas, we obtain acidity and freshness, and from the low-lying, warm areas, ripeness and richness.

Grape Varieties

The current blend is simple: 100% Sangiovese, from old vines ranging in age from 35 to 80 years.

However, “Testamatta” was not always a single-varietal wine. Until about 2015, it included Canaiolo and Colorino, traditional secondary varieties for Chianti. Mr. Graetz gradually phased them out of each plot. The reason for his success in producing a single-varietal Sangiovese lies in the diversity of the plots. Lamole, located at high altitude, contributes acidity and floral freshness, Vincigliata, structure thanks to its galestro soil, and the southern plots, rich flavor. Many single-varietal Sangiovese wines are often perceived as monotonous, but this issue is resolved through blending, which combines different terroirs.

Winemaking

The harvest is done by hand and is not completed in a single pass. Each plot is walked through up to 8 times per season, picking only the fully ripe berries. The berries are sorted twice: first in the vineyard, then at the winery.

Fermentation occurs exclusively using wild yeasts present on the surface of the berries. Wine from smaller plots is fermented in 225-liter open barriques, while wine from larger plots is fermented in larger barrels or stainless steel tanks. Importantly, all plots are managed separately, from harvest through aging. The final blend of “Testamatta” is determined not at the beginning, but at the end of the winemaking process. This results in a harmonious wine that retains the individual character of each plot.

Food Pairing

Since “Testamatta” has the high acidity and firm tannins characteristic of the Sangiovese variety, it requires richness and saltiness to achieve balance. Here are a few dishes that pair well with it:

• “Bistecca alla Fiorentina” (Tuscan bone-in steak) — crispy on the outside, medium-rare on the inside
• Wild boar ragù with pappardelle
• Aged Pecorino Toscano — the saltier, the better
• Roast duck with cherries and figs

Its acidity, just as with Chianti during dinner, perfectly balances the richness of the dishes. In other words, this is the ideal way to enjoy it.

Serving Suggestions

Serve at 18–20 °C. At higher temperatures, the alcohol comes to the forefront, and at lower temperatures, the aroma doesn’t fully develop. Young vintages (less than 10 years old) should be decanted for at least 90 minutes to allow contact with air. For aged wines, 30 minutes is sufficient, but if there is sediment in the bottle, pour the wine carefully. In this case, standard Burgundy-style glasses are better suited than Bordeaux glasses, since Sangiovese benefits from contact with air across a wider surface area.

Vintages

Testamatta’s flavor varies significantly depending on the vintage. This is due not only to the fact that the vineyards are widely scattered, but also to the fact that pure Sangiovese has nowhere to hide. Warm years in Tuscany, such as 2020, give the wine richness, deep fruit flavors, and soft acidity, allowing it to reach its peak drinking window more quickly. Cooler years and more classic vintages produce a more austere, piquant Testamatta with sharp acidity, which is worth aging for a long time. The 2012 vintage serves as a good example of what an aged “Testamatta” becomes, as secondary notes (leather, dried herbs, tobacco) begin to emerge in the aroma. The 2021 vintage is in the early stages of its maturation period. If you plan to drink the wine right now, it’s best to choose a vintage that has been aged for at least 8–10 years. For cellar aging, vintages from recent years are a reliable choice.

The best vintages of Testamatta are, amongst others: 2006, 2012, 2016, 2018, 2020, 2021.

Cellaring Potential

Recommended drinking window till 25 years after release, depending on the vintage. The wine’s structure is a classic Sangiovese in all its glory. It has high natural acidity and dense, slightly astringent tannins, and it takes time for these two components to blend harmoniously. Old vines give the wine a richness that does not diminish over time. Store the wine at a stable temperature of 12–14 °C, in a dark place if possible.