Die Vegetationsperiode 2020 in Südaustralien war warm und trocken, wobei die Erträge durch die Dürre erheblich zurückgingen. Für den Penfolds Grange bedeutet dies kleine, konzentrierte Beeren – genau das, wonach Peter Gago bei der Lese in den Tälern Barossa, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Padthaway und Coonawarra gesucht hatte. Der 2020er Grange ist dicht und strukturiert – kein Wein, den man früh trinken sollte. Dieser Jahrgang eignet sich eher für eine lange Lagerung als für den frühen Genuss. Best of Wines bewertet den 2020er als einen der kraftvollsten unter den jüngsten Jahrgängen.
Robert Parker (95)
The 2020 Grange comprises 97% Shiraz and the balance Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale (48%), Barossa Valley (40%) and Clare Valley (12%), and it matured for 20 months in American oak hogsheads, 100% new. While the metric of regions changes each season and the proportion of Shiraz changes slightly, the élevage and style remain the same. Aromatically, the wine is black and savory, with crushed ant, black peppercorn, blueberry, blackberry and licorice/aniseed. In the mouth, the wine feels lighter than some other vintages on release. There is something like clarity and perhaps a little hole in the mid-palate—it sits like clarity or less density and also features as breathing space. A nice wine, it is lighter than the preceding 2019. Both vintages had their challenges, but this 2020 season has yielded an "easier" feeling wine.
James Suckling (97)
Blackberry, blueberry, graphite and terra cotta aromas. Medium-bodied with clarity, focus and very fine tannins that are polished and caressing. One of the most refined and textural Granges I have had in a long time. The tannins are very resolved. This is mostly Barossa and McLaren Vale with some Claire Valley. 3% cabernet sauvignon. Very drinkable now, but will age beautifully.
Jancis Robinson (17.50)
Extremely dark, concentrated purplish crimson. Heady, rich, layered nose. Sweet start yet a dry, chewy finish. Very youthful. Wait! Almost painful to taste now.
Vinous (95)
This dense and brooding 2020 Shiraz Grange has all the elements for a long life with impressive levels of extract and tannins, but lacking the delicacy of a great vintage. It opens up with waves of tarry, licorice and cola aromas against a backdrop of firm, unyielding oak. Muscular, chalky tannins provide a strong frame to waves of blackberry flavor which build toward a drying finish. A couple more years in the cellar will bring all the pieces together before a two-decade drinking window.
Decanter (94)
The celebrated reputation of Grange places every new release under intense scrutiny, and this passes muster as sturdy and convincing, but without the stellar fireworks of 2019 or the instantaneous drink-now temptation of many from the past decade. Coming from the low-yielding 2020 vintage, a broad net was cast across McLaren Vale, Barossa and Clare to find the right mix of fruit parcels showing both concentration and complexity. With the modest addition of 3% Cabernet Sauvignon (noting that Penfolds did not release its elite Bin 707 and Bin 129 Cabernets from the 2020 vintage), this pulls tight focus on Shiraz’s primary allure – blackberry and black plum rinsed in rich mocha and dark chocolate, piqued by a dusting of cinnamon, pepper and vanilla. This is made to be cellared, and will tell a more exuberant story in another decade.
