Santenay
Santenay sits at the southern tip of the Côte de Beaune, just past Chassagne-Montrachet on the way out of the Côte d'Or. Its 330 hectares of vineyards produce mostly Pinot Noir reds and a small amount of Chardonnay whites, with 12 Premier Cru climats but no Grand Crus.
Santenay, its location
Santenay is situated at the very foot of the Côte de Beaune, the southern half of the famous Burgundian Côte d’Or. A twenty-minute drive south from Beaune will take you there, just beyond Chassagne-Montrachet, on the road towards the Saône-et-Loire department. The vineyards stretch across the slopes of Mont des Sains, at an altitude of between 220 and 500 metres, on the same limestone ridge that runs northwards as far as Dijon. To the north, it borders Chassagne-Montrachet, with which it shares a strip of Premier Cru vineyards. To the west lies the Maranges appellation. The AOC also encompasses several vineyards in the neighbouring village of Remigny, although their wines tend to resemble those of the Côte Chalonnaise more than the classic wines of the Côte de Beaune.
The appellation covers around 330 hectares of vineyards, of which around 130 are classified as Premier Cru. There are no Grand Cru vineyards here. The village itself is also a small spa town with thermal springs that have attracted visitors since the days of the Roman Empire. AOC status was granted in 1937.
Grapes in wines from Santenay
Santenay is predominantly a Pinot Noir region, although a small amount of white wine is produced here. The ratio is approximately 85% red to 15% white. The red wines are made from Pinot Noir, whilst the AOC rules technically allow up to 15% Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris in the blend, although nowadays almost no one makes use of this option. White wines are almost always 100% Chardonnay, although Pinot Blanc is also permitted. A few winemakers, including Jean-Marc Vincent, are also experimenting with Aligoté.
What crus are there in Santenay?
Santénay has 12 Premier Cru climats, located in three parts of the commune. The northernmost group, where Santénay borders Chassagne-Montrachet, is generally considered the finest in terms of finesse and structure. The middle group lies just above the village. The western group extends towards Maranges. Here are the 12:
- Beauregard
- Beaurepaire
- Clos de Tavannes
- Clos des Mouches
- Clos Faubard
- Clos Rousseau
- Grand Clos Rousseau
- La Comme
- La Maladière
- Les Gravières
- Les Gravières-Clos de Tavannes
- Passetemps
Of these, Les Gravier and Clos de Tavan are most consistently renowned for their red wines, situated midway up the slope on limestone soils with ideal exposure. Boreper and Passetemp also attract considerable attention. La Comme is one of the few places where producers can create truly impressive white wines alongside their reds.
Premier cru plots may be labelled with the name of the climat, or simply as ‘Santenay Premier Cru’ if the wine is a blend from several premier cru plots.
Wine producers
What does Santenay taste like?
The style of red Santenay lies somewhere between the elegance of Volnay and the density of Pommard, though it is earthier and more rustic than both of these wines. The colour is a clear, brilliant black-cherry. The aroma tends towards the spicy, with notes of red fruits (cherries, raspberries, blackberries), violets, peonies and a hint of liquorice on the nose, followed by earth, undergrowth and a touch of spice on the palate. On the palate, the attack is firm yet supple, with restrained tannins and good acidity. These wines are not sensational; they are built on tension and structure rather than power, and the best of them age very well—from ten to fifteen years for the finest Premier Crus from a reputable producer.
White Santenay is less common, but well worth seeking out. The wines are clean and vibrant, with aromas of citrus and white flowers, hints of hazelnut and almond, and a distinct mineral note from the limestone. They are fresh and lively rather than rich, more reminiscent of a slender Chassagne than an oily Meursault. They are best enjoyed young, but the finest examples can be kept for five to eight years.
Food pairings
Red Santenay is a versatile wine for the table, more so than its more powerful neighbours. Its supple structure and savoury aromas pair particularly well with slow-cooked meat dishes, where the tannins find their footing. Classic pairings include beef bourguignon (an obvious local choice), braised veal, shoulder of lamb or coq au vin. Roasted or glazed poultry, duck and grilled meat are also suitable. As for cheeses, the wines pair well with a wide range, from washed-rind cheeses such as Pont-l’Évêque, Reblochon and the local Cité, to Brie de Meaux and other milder varieties. Charcuterie is another reliable pairing.
The freshness and minerality of white Santenay make it a good choice with fish, particularly in cream-based sauces or beurre blanc, as well as with risotto or pasta dishes featuring mushrooms, leeks or chicken. Roast poultry in a creamy sauce is a classic regional pairing. With cheese, it pairs particularly well with hard mountain varieties such as Comté and Beaufort, as well as with fresh goat’s cheeses, where the acidity cuts through the richness. As an aperitif, it is, in itself, cleaner and livelier than most white wines from the Côte de Beaune.
