Professional reviews
Robert Parker (90)
Notorious for not living up to the estate’s nor the vintage’s reputations, I have to say this 1990 Mouton Rothschild was not looking nearly as bad as I was expecting. This was a hot, dry vintage, which can be a challenge for vines on such free-draining soils as the deep gravel-mounds composing the backbone of Mouton’s vineyards. The effect of the struggling vines is apparent in the wine, yielding less density and chewier tannins. Nonetheless, the terroir's pedigree clearly glimmers in the background.
The wine displays a brick color with subtle, compellingly elegant redcurrant jelly, dried cranberries and powdered cinnamon notes plus wafts of potpourri, dried figs, unsmoked cigars and dusty soil. Medium-bodied, it is notably far more delicately fruited than one would expect of Mouton, structured with bold freshness and a light chew of tannins before finishing on a mineral note. Indeed, it is skinny compared to great vintages, but it is aging gracefully. For readers who love those soft-spoken, more delicately expressed styles, this one’s for you!
Winespectator (97)
Black red. Coffee, cigar box and chocolate aromas. Full-bodied, yet harmonious, with a lovely, silky texture. A caressing and rich wine. Gorgeous. I have underrated this in the past.
Rene Gabriel (19)
Rene Gabriel rates this wine 19/20 points.
BOW (9)
Jancis Robinson (18.50)
Served at the Versailles dinner so note written from memory. This was a gloriously ripe, round wine – despite being served from magnum. This was hugely dramatic and made the same sort of impact as Philippine de Rothschild. No wonder her widower Jean-Pierre de Beaumarchais liked it so much. I wonder how much longer it will see, at the peak of its powers?
Vinous (94)
Bright red with a pale rim. Knockout nose of aromatic herbs, strawberry, sweet spices and acacia flower; yet another wine strongly marked by its cabernet franc presence. Fresh and vibrant, this absolutely dances on the palate with strawberry, sour red cherry and raspberry flavors complicated by gunflint and herbs. High acidity provides great clarity and cut to the long, floral, smoothly tannic finish. This has improved considerably with bottle age. Harvested from September 18 through October 3, this Mouton offers amazing balance and fragrance. In 1990 Mouton was still using a heavy toast for its barriques, which resulted in a smoky quality in the wines that was considered by many to be just as typical of Mouton as its opulence. "But we began turning things back in 1993, as we saw that our 1992 was a little unbalanced from the use of heavily toasted barrels," said Tourbier remarks.
Decanter (94)
Just pipped by its older sibling. Harvest lasted 18 September to 3 October, and grapes underwent a serious sorting after uneven ripening (they also did green harvesting). Autumn hedgerow aromatics with hawthorn and blackberries. The palate is soft and gentle, not as intense as the 1989 but still loaded with Pauillac signature. It didn’t get the most positive reaction on release, but this seems unfair at 30 years of age – this wine is still rippling with power. Label artist Francis Bacon, with one of his last works.
