Hoë-Steen betekent 'hoge steen', en deze Chenin Blanc uit het oogstjaar 2024, geproduceerd door David & Nadia, is geoogst in de aan de wind blootgestelde Paardeberg-wijngaard in de Swartland-regio, die in 1968 werd aangelegd. Door stormen tijdens het groeiseizoen werd de vruchtzetting verstoord, waardoor de oogst minder dan 1.000 flessen opleverde. Dankzij de ijzerrijke rode kleigrond, de op het zuiden gerichte helling en een kloon met grote trossen rijpt deze wijngaard tot vier weken later dan de andere percelen van het wijnhuis, en deze kenmerken komen duidelijk tot uiting in de wijn. Aroma's van geel fruit overheersen ten opzichte van wit fruit, met tonen van venkel en citroenschil, en een steenachtige, zoute afdronk onder een romige textuur. Het best te drinken tussen 2026 en 2040.
Robert Parker (96)
The David & Nadia 2024 Swartland Hoë-Steen Chenin Blanc, translated as “high stone,” comes from a wind-exposed Paardeberg vineyard planted in 1968, producing just 900 bottles in this vintage. Grown on iron-rich red soils and planted to a large-bunch clone, the site ripens up to four weeks later than the estate's other parcels. South-facing exposure and flowering challenges limit yields, resulting in a wine shaped more by texture than overt perfumes. Yellow fruit and density are balanced by structure and depth. The vineyard’s elevation and exposure to persistent Cape winds contribute to its slow, steady ripening that adds beautiful intensity and unique length. It will be fascinating to see how this wine fleshes out with more time in bottle.
James Suckling (96)
Lovely breadth and density to this full-bodied white, with stony and salty undertones to the fruit. Aromas of fennel, lemon rind, jasmine and grapefruit are supported by mineral coolness and creamy texture. Delicious finish. From a vineyard planted in 1968 with deep iron- and clay-rich soils. Drink or hold. 1,000 bottles produced.
Vinous (91)
The 2024 Chenin Blanc Hoë-Steen comes from vines on iron-rich clay that tend to ripen at the end of February. Wind reduced volumes to 900 bottles due to interrupted fruit set. It has a lightly spiced, peppermint-tinged bouquet that opens gradually in the glass, yellow rather than white fruit. The palate has respectable weight, a keen line of acidity, perhaps just does not quite have the complexity of the Langland on the finish. But still, this will give a decade of drinking pleasure.
