Chambertin 2023 Domaine Tortochot

Tasting Notes

First impression: dark cherry and crushed raspberry, the forest floor aromas that Gevrey specializes in. Beneath them lies something ironic, almost bloody, characteristic of Chambertin: the 2023 is fleshy on the palate, more ripe than a typical cold harvest Chambertin, but with good acidity. The tannins are firm, chalky but not aggressive. The finish is long, savory and salty. This wine needs to age in the cellar to show all it can do.

Grape Varieties

Chambertin is a pinot noir. So why is the region's pinot different from neighboring Charmes and Mazis? The terrain, with its iron-rich red soil and medium slopes, gives Chambertin pinot noir its signature combination of power and finesse in one glass. Power and finesse in one glass.

Cellaring Potential

Drink between 2030 and 2050; the 2023 has the age-worthy structure, ripe tannins, firm acidity and concentration that can only be achieved with low yields and Grand Cru fruit. Open early if necessary; store horizontally, away from light, at a stable temperature of 12-14°C.

The Producer

Tortochot is not a name that always comes up in Burgundy wine talk. This is one of the reasons why we like to keep this wine. The estate has been in the hands of the family since 1865, and Chantal Tortochot took over in the late 1990s after a career in finance. She studied oenology at the University of Burgundy and obtained organic certification (Ecocert) for the estate. The Grands Crus, including Chambertin, sit on about 11-12 hectares of land in 34 plots. In our opinion, the wines offer Grand Cru quality without the Grand Cru hype.

Terroir & Climate

Chambertin is a 12.90 hectare vineyard located on a gentle east-southeast facing slope, 275-300 meters above sea level, in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin. The soil is brown limestone over Bajocian rocks, with bands of marl, pebbles and iron-rich red earth. Why it's important. The clay retains moisture even in dry summers and keeps the vines balanced in hot weather. Limestone gives the wines a mineral backbone. The east-facing aspect provides morning sun, slow ripening and the aromatic precision that Pinot Noir so desperately needs.

Winemaking

Domaine Tortochot chills the grapes to around 10°C and after a week of cold maceration, fermentation begins using native yeast in open tanks. Most of the stems are removed, but in warmer years about 25% are picked in whole bunches to preserve freshness. The pressing is done using a pneumatic press. Chambertin is aged longer than the 12-14 months for Premier Cru, using about 80% new French oak barrels. Although the amount of new oak is high, the concentration of Chambertin absorbs it. The wine undergoes no fining or filtration before bottling.

Food Pairing

The power of Chambertin requires the right red meat. Try:

• Roast rabbit à la royale, a traditional Burgundian dish.
• Saddle of venison with reduction sauce.
• Beef bourguignon with mushrooms cooked over low heat.
• Ripe epoisses (if you want to taste the combination of cheese and wine).

Serve at 16-18°C. Decant a young bottle for 1 hour before serving.