Chambertin 2019 Domaine Tortochot

Tasting Notes

First and foremost, the depth is impressive. Black cherries, crushed raspberries, a whiff of wood smoke, and something decidedly fergény, like the iron-rich brown earth that is characteristic of the calcareous soils of Chambertin. The palate is muscular for a Tortochot wine, with firm but refined tannins and the concentration characteristic of the 2019. Aromas are notes of forest floor and new oak-derived clove. Long finish. This is a serious Pinot Noir and needs time.

Grape Varieties

The only variety allowed in Chambertin is Pinot Noir. So why do the wines of Tortouchot taste different from those of neighboring Mazis or Charmes? It lies in the location. Chambertin is located on a hillside at an altitude of 275 to 300 meters above sea level, on east-facing limestone, marl and iron-rich brown soil. This iron gives the wine its serious and structured character, which is why Chambertin is called the "serious father" of the four Grands Crus.

Cellaring Potential

Don't touch it until 2028; the 2019 wine has the grip and concentration of tannins to age for 20-30 years; Best drinking period is around 2030 and age until 2045; keep at a stable temperature of 12-14°C; bottle age for 10 years. After 10 years in bottle, the primary fruit flavors turn to truffles, leather and undergrowth.

About Domaine Tortochot

Domaine Tortochot sits in the middle of Gevrey-Chambertin with a set of holdings most estates would envy: four Grand Crus, including Chambertin itself, plus Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, and a sliver of Clos de Vougeot that yields about three barrels a year. Chantal Michel-Tortochot, fourth generation, has run the place since her father's death in 2001, after swapping a finance career in the petrochemical industry for an oenology degree at Dijon. Around 11 to 12 hectares are spread across 34 plots in Gevrey, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vougeot. Farming has been chemical-free since 2005, organic-certified since 2013. Vines are planted at 10,000 per hectare, yields cut hard, and the wines go into barrel unfiltered. Pinot Noir does the heavy lifting, as it should here.

Terroir & Climate

Chambertin is a 12.90 hectare vineyard located on a gentle east-southeast facing slope, 275-300 meters above sea level, in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin. The soil is brown limestone over Bajocian rocks, with bands of marl, pebbles and iron-rich red earth. Why it's important. The clay retains moisture even in dry summers and keeps the vines balanced in hot weather. Limestone gives the wines a mineral backbone. The east-facing aspect provides morning sun, slow ripening and the aromatic precision that Pinot Noir so desperately needs.

Winemaking

Domaine Tortochot chills the grapes to around 10°C and after 4-5 days of cold maceration, fermentation begins using native yeast in open tanks. Most of the stems are removed, but in warmer years about 25% are picked in whole bunches to preserve freshness. The pressing is done using a pneumatic press. Chambertin is aged longer than the 12-14 months for Premier Cru, using about 80% new French oak barrels. Although the amount of new oak is high, the concentration of Chambertin absorbs it. The wine undergoes no fining or filtration before bottling.

Food Pairing

The power of Chambertin requires the right red meat. Try:

• Roast rabbit à la royale, a traditional Burgundian dish.
• Saddle of venison with reduction sauce.
• Beef bourguignon with mushrooms cooked over low heat.
• Ripe epoisses (if you want to taste the combination of cheese and wine).

Serve at 16-18°C. Decant a young bottle for 1 hour before serving.