Chambertin 2021 Domaine Tortochot

Tasting Notes

The first thing that strikes you is the lifted aromatics. Red cherries, cranberries, rose petals, and the almost iron-like minerality that cool limestone gives in cooler years. This Pinot Noir is more transparent than dense, but don't mistake that for subtlety. It has grip, fine tannins mingling with bright acidity and a long, fragrant finish reminiscent of undergrowth. Drinking it now would be a shame. Give it time.

Grape Varieties

100% Pinot Noir. Not surprisingly, Chambertin is a Grand Cru, and nothing else is allowed. So why is 2021 so important for this grape? Pinot is a heat-sensitive terroir grape. In warmer years, it becomes jammy; in 2021, the cooler weather allowed the old vines of Tortouchot, located in the middle of Chambertin, to produce wines that are more transparent, more nervy, and more typical of this appellation.

Cellaring Potential

This wine needs to age until at least 2030. The engine of this wine is acidity, not tannins, which means slow and elegant development. Aging: from 2030 to 2045; store at 12-14°C. Expect the red fruits to gradually transform into truffles, leather and forest floor.

The Producer

Tortochot is not a name that always comes up in Burgundy wine talk. This is one of the reasons why we like to keep this wine. The estate has been in the hands of the family since 1865, and Chantal Tortochot took over in the late 1990s after a career in finance. She studied oenology at the University of Burgundy and obtained organic certification (Ecocert) for the estate. The Grands Crus, including Chambertin, sit on about 11-12 hectares of land in 34 plots. In our opinion, the wines offer Grand Cru quality without the Grand Cru hype.

Terroir & Climate

Chambertin is a 12.90 hectare vineyard located on a gentle east-southeast facing slope, 275-300 meters above sea level, in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin. The soil is brown limestone over Bajocian rocks, with bands of marl, pebbles and iron-rich red earth. Why it's important. The clay retains moisture even in dry summers and keeps the vines balanced in hot weather. Limestone gives the wines a mineral backbone. The east-facing aspect provides morning sun, slow ripening and the aromatic precision that Pinot Noir so desperately needs.

Winemaking

Domaine Tortochot chills the grapes to around 10°C and after a week of cold maceration, fermentation begins using native yeast in open tanks. Most of the stems are removed, but in warmer years about 25% are picked in whole bunches to preserve freshness. The pressing is done using a pneumatic press. Chambertin is aged longer than the 12-14 months for Premier Cru, using about 80% new French oak barrels. Although the amount of new oak is high, the concentration of Chambertin absorbs it. The wine undergoes no fining or filtration before bottling.

Food Pairing

The power of Chambertin requires the right red meat. Try:

• Roast rabbit à la royale, a traditional Burgundian dish.
• Saddle of venison with reduction sauce.
• Beef bourguignon with mushrooms cooked over low heat.
• Ripe epoisses (if you want to taste the combination of cheese and wine).

Serve at 16-18°C. Decant a young bottle for 1 hour before serving.