Conteisa 2018 Gaja

Tasting Notes

First impressions. Rose and tar are classic Nebbiolo characteristics, but here they are elevated by something brighter. Hints of sour cherry, pomegranate and orange zest. Tortona marl from La Morra lends flavor to the Conteisa, and the cool-season 2018 enhances its floral character. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannins and the crisp acidity that Nebbiolo is known for. The finish is long and savory, with notes of leather and crushed herbs. It's drinkable now if you let it air, but it will be even better in five years.

Grape Varieties

Instead of blending the Conteisa with a small amount (about 8%) of Barbera, since 2013 the Conteisa is 100% Nebbiolo.

Cellaring Potential

Drink between 2026 and 2040; the 2018 will be fine earlier, as it lacks the dense tannin backbone of the 2016. But the acidity is superb and will sustain Nebbiolo for decades. Store at 12-14°C. If opened while still young, decant one hour before serving.

The Producer

If you ask any wine merchant which Italian estate shaped the modern era of Piedmont, Gaja would be at the top of the list. Why: Angelo Gaja, who joined the family business in 1961, brought international relevance to Barolo and Barbaresco through single vineyard bottling, French oak, and meticulous vineyard work. The history of the estate dates back to 1859, but it was Angelo who made it famous. Today, his children Gaia, Rossana, and Giovanni run the day-to-day operations. Best of Wine considers Gaia an essential part of an authentic Piedmontese cellar.

Terroir & Climate

Contesa means "to challenge" in Piedmontese, and the winemaking lives up to its name. Cru Cerequio is located on the border of the communes of La Morra and Barolo, which were historically disputed by both. The soil is Tortona calcareous marl, gray-blue in color and younger than that found in Serralunga. The Tortona marl produces a more aromatic, flavorful, and less brooding Barolo. Altitude 300-400 m, south facing, cool nights until September. Typical conditions for late ripening Nebbiolo.

Winemaking

Gaggi's approach to making Conteisa is divided between modernist and traditional. Aging in French barriques (small 225 liter barrels) for about a year refines the wine, followed by two years in large Slavonian oak barrels to allow the wine to breathe and become integrated. The aging in barriques gives the wine structure, but is not dominant. During the botrytis stage, the aromas of Nebbiolo take shape. The result? A wine with grip and length, but no wood flavors. This is the balance that Gaya has been perfecting since the 1970s.

Food Pairing

Nebbiolo's tannins and acidity need fat and umami. Pair with:

• Brasato al Barolo, beef braised in the same wine.
• Tajarin with white truffles from Alba, the earthy combination that built Piedmont's reputation.
• Aged Castelmagno cheese.
• Roasted wild rabbit or wild boar ragout.

Serve at 16-18°C. young 2019 wines should be decanted for at least 1 hour.