Barbera d'Alba
Piemonte is famous because of its Barolo and Barbaresco wines. But when you look just a little closer you will find another extraordinary wine region, which deserves much closer attention. Barbera d’Alba wines comes from the same area and is often produced by the same wineries; at its best, it ranks easily among Italy’s best red wines. And it is far more affordable.
Barbera d'Alba
The Barbera grape variety has been grown in Piemonte since at least the 13th century; the earliest records appear in documents from the Cathedral of Casale Monferrato, dating from between 1246 and 1277.
The first official reference to Barbera as a distinct grape variety appeared in 1798, when Count Giuseppe Nuvolone-Pergamo of Scardaluzo, then Vice-President of the Turin Agricultural Society, published the first definitive catalogue of Piedmontese grape varieties.
Throughout its long history, Barbera was largely regarded as a ‘workhorse’ variety, prized for its high yields and early ripening, and typically consumed young locally. Barbera d’Alba DOC received official recognition in 1970. A turning point in quality came in the 1980s, when producers began to adopt appropriate vineyard management techniques and oak ageing, and showed that Barbera can bring a depth like many more famous and higher priced wines.
Vineyards and Terroir
The ‘Barbera d’Alba’ DOC is located in the Langhe hills near the town of Alba. The appellation almost entirely overlaps with the Barolo and Barbaresco regions, with vineyards situated at altitudes ranging from approximately 200 to 550 metres. The soils are predominantly limestone, clay and chalk, and are well-drained – precisely the same soil conditions that give Barolo its structure and ageing potential. In fact, as Nebbiolo is more expensive and requires the sunniest hillside plots, Barbera has historically been planted on slightly cooler and less favourable slopes; nevertheless, many wineries have now begun to place great importance on it, regardless of its origin.
Grapes in wines from Barbera d'Alba
The Barbera variety grown here accounts for at least 85% of the blend in any DOC-level wine. Up to 15% Nebbiolo can be used, but no Dolcetto. The wines produced from Barbera are deep in colour, with low tannins and high natural acidity, a combination that makes them suitable for drinking young with food. When young, the aromas are dominated by fresh cherries, raspberries and blueberries; with age, they develop more complex notes of leather and spices.
Winemaking
There are two main styles. The more minimalist version is fermented in stainless steel or concrete tanks and bottled early, making it suitable for drinking young. The more rigorous style (which may be labelled ‘Superiore’) requires ageing for at least 12 months, with a minimum of 4 months in oak barrels, and a minimum alcohol content of 12.5%. Many top estates still adhere to the traditional Piedmontese style, using large Slovenian oak barrels; however, since the 1980s, small French oak barrels have gradually become the trend.
Famous wineries in Barbera d'Alba
Some of the region’s largest producers craft exceptional Barbera d’Alba. Giacomo Conterno ages his Barbera in large traditional oak barrels for two years; Vietti, Bartolo Mascarello, Luciano Sandrone, G.D. Vaira, Roberto Volzio and Poderi Aldo Conterno, all enjoy a fine reputation for this wine. Angelo Gaia has contributed significantly to raising Piedmont’s international profile; he produces a highly acclaimed barrel-aged version called ‘Vignale’.
The different wines
Barbera d’Alba has two official styles: the standard DOC and the Superiore, which requires longer ageing. In addition, there is the Castellinaldo sub-region, which has stricter regulations. Entry-level wines are best enjoyed young, whilst the top-tier Superiore versions can age in the bottle for over a decade. Prices range from affordable everyday options to the significantly higher prices of single-vineyard wines from top estates.
