Conteisa 2019 Gaja

Tasting Notes

First impression: rose petals and dried strawberries, then something darker, tar, hints of leather, and a faint whiff of wood smoke. On the palate, the 2019 shows its brilliance. The tannins are present but refined, and the acidity is bright enough to keep things in check. There is a savory, almost balsamic nuance in the center of the palette, suggesting that this wine is in no hurry to go anywhere. Can you drink it now if you let it air out? Absolutely. But Conteisa 2019 will take time.

Grape Varieties

Since its return to Barolo DOCG with the 2013 vintage, Contaisa 2019 is 100% Nebbiolo. So why is this important? Nebbiolo is the only grape that truly conveys the calcareous marl of Selecchio. It brings rose, resin, high acidity, and tannins that take years to settle. No other grape variety but Nebbiolo can do this job.

Cellaring Potential

Drink from 2027 to 2045; the tannins and acidity of the 2019 are worthy of patience and it would be a shame to open it earlier than 2027; store horizontally at a stable temperature of 12-14°C, away from light. Expect truffles, dried cherries and softer textures as it ages.

The Producer

If you ask any wine merchant which Italian estate shaped the modern era of Piedmont, Gaja would be at the top of the list. Why: Angelo Gaja, who joined the family business in 1961, brought international relevance to Barolo and Barbaresco through single vineyard bottling, French oak, and meticulous vineyard work. The history of the estate dates back to 1859, but it was Angelo who made it famous. Today, his children Gaia, Rossana, and Giovanni run the day-to-day operations. Best of Wine considers Gaia an essential part of an authentic Piedmontese cellar.

Terroir & Climate

Contesa means "to challenge" in Piedmontese, and the winemaking lives up to its name. Cru Cerequio is located on the border of the communes of La Morra and Barolo, which were historically disputed by both. The soil is Tortona calcareous marl, gray-blue in color and younger than that found in Serralunga. The Tortona marl produces a more aromatic, flavorful, and less brooding Barolo. Altitude 300-400 m, south facing, cool nights until September. Typical conditions for late ripening Nebbiolo.

Winemaking

Gaggi's approach to making Conteisa is divided between modernist and traditional. Aging in French barriques (small 225 liter barrels) for about a year refines the wine, followed by two years in large Slavonian oak barrels to allow the wine to breathe and become integrated. The aging in barriques gives the wine structure, but is not dominant. During the botrytis stage, the aromas of Nebbiolo take shape. The result? A wine with grip and length, but no wood flavors. This is the balance that Gaya has been perfecting since the 1970s.

Food Pairing

Nebbiolo's tannins and acidity need fat and umami. Pair with:

• Brasato al Barolo, beef braised in the same wine.
• Tajarin with white truffles from Alba, the earthy combination that built Piedmont's reputation.
• Aged Castelmagno cheese.
• Roasted wild rabbit or wild boar ragout.

Serve at 16-18°C. young 2019 wines should be decanted for at least 1 hour.