La saison de croissance 2010 à Bordeaux a offert des conditions véritablement idéales pour le cépage Merlot, cultivé sur les sols argilo-limoneux de la rive droite. L'été a été sec, avec des nuits fraîches et une maturation lente, ce qui a nécessité de retarder les vendanges. Pour Petrus, cela a permis de récolter des raisins à la peau épaisse, très concentrés et dotés d’une acidité naturelle bien affirmée. Il en résulte un Pomerol doté d’une structure plus charpentée et de notes fruitées plus discrètes que le millésime 2009, ainsi que d’un plus grand potentiel de garde. Il s’agit d’un Petrus élaboré en privilégiant avant tout le vieillissement en cave, et seulement dans un second temps le plaisir de le déguster à table.
Robert Parker (100)
The harvest at Petrus took place between September 27 and October 12, and the 2010 finished at 14.1% natural alcohol, which is slightly lower than the 2009's 14.5%. The 2010 reminds me somewhat of the pre-1975 vintages of Petrus, a monster-in-the-making, with loads of mulberry, coffee, licorice and black cherry notes with an overlay of enormous amounts of glycerin and depth. Stunningly rich, full-bodied and more tannic and classic than the 2009, this is an awesome Petrus, but probably needs to be forgotten for 8-10 years. It should last at least another 50 or more.
Someone told me recently that Petrus had a second wine, so I asked Olivier Berrouet, their young, talented administrator, whether that was true, and he flatly denied it, so if any Asian wine buyers are running across second wines of Petrus in Hong Kong or on mainland China, be warned – they are not genuine. Proprietor Jean Moueix, who I believe is in his late twenties, has taken over for his father, Jean-Francois, who has largely retired, and the younger Moueix has really pushed quality even higher at this renowned estate. Anyone visiting Pomerol would have undoubtedly noticed the renovations at Petrus, as it was once one of the most modest and humble buildings in the appellation. Moreover, I suspect that multi-millionaire/billionaire collectors will have about 50 years to debate over which vintage of Petrus turns out better, the 2009 or 2010. In a perfect world, most people would love to have a few bottles of each, or at least the opportunity to taste them once in a while, as they have become more of a myth than something real, but these wines do, in fact, exist!
Winespectator (97)
This feels dense and unyielding now, with loads of grip supporting a dark, muscular and very backward core of bay leaf, tobacco, plum, blackberry and fig notes. Powerful, fresh and racy, with a tarry edge adding vivacity and drive to the lengthy, raspberry-dominated finish. The raspberry spine seems destined to win out after extended cellaring.
James Suckling (100)
This a Petrus with extraordinary balance and depth. It shows such elegance in the nose with complexity of black olives, dark fruits, and flowers. The palate is full and ultra-velvety yet there is a cashmere quality to the texture. It takes your breath away. There's almost a Burgundian quality in the mouthfeel meaning it takes you deep into the soil and captivates your attention. Greatest modern vintage of Petrus ever? Try after 2018.
Jancis Robinson (18.5)
Tasted blind. Deep smudgy garnet. Some more mature tertiary notes here of undergrowth and leather but also the remains of red fruits and something more floral as well as savoury black olives. Firm, dense, spicy and very long. Power and elegance.
Vinous (98)
The 2010 Petrus has an extraordinary bouquet, ineffably complex with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, dried blood and wild mint aromas that unfurl magically from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and generous, yet amazingly controlled with such tension and grace on the silky smooth finish. This is a fantastic Petrus, one of the greatest in recent years.
Decanter (98)
Maybe surprising to see a Pomerol that is so well-built that it is not anywhere near ready even at 10 years old, but this is Pétrus, a place that writes its own rules. The brushed silk exuberance is there, but hidden underneath a still-pulsating wall of tannins. You expect this level of concentration in Pauillac, so it is more of a surprise on the Right Bank, but here you are in no doubt that 2010 is an intellectual, demanding vintage that needs to be given time. You need to look to 2009 Pétrus to begin enjoying any time soon - this is structured, full of dark fruits, structured, savagely built, out to impress.
Rene Gabriel (20)
Rene Gabriel rates this wine 20/20 points.
BOW (10)
Falstaff (100)
Dark ruby with purple reflections and a subtle brightening on the rim. Delicate balsamic aromas with a hint of nougat in the background, with black truffle, sweet cherry, candied orange zest, subtle hints of spice and fine oak notes. The palate is juicy, with pleasant fruit, silkily textured tannins, perfectly proportioned and full of finesse, with a sweetly fruited, red berry finish that lingers for minutes. Already immensely seductive, simply great!
