Graves

Wine diversity at its finest. Graves wines are considered the cradle of Bordeaux wines. On the one hand, you will find world-famous icons here, and on the other hand, you can still make real discoveries – from long-lived red wines to impressively complex white wines.

Where exactly is the Graves appellation?

With a vineyard area of 3,600 hectares, Graves ranks in the middle of Bordeaux in terms of size. The appellation is located south of Bordeaux on the left bank of the Garonne, where it winds its way for about 55 kilometres close to the river. Incidentally, the name Graves derives from the gravelly soils that predominate here and give the area its distinctive character.

As everywhere in Bordeaux, the ancient Romans were the first to plant vineyards here. But there is one small peculiarity. Thanks to the Roman author Columella, it is documented that viticulture in Bordeaux actually began in Graves – and spread from here throughout the entire region. In the Middle Ages, Graves gained great importance through trade with England, especially during the reign of Eleanor of Aquitaine, who became Queen of England in 1154. And with the founding of Château Haut-Brion in the 16th century, Graves became something of a wine-growing epicentre in Bordeaux, as the winery set milestones in cellar techniques and quality right from the start. It thus laid the foundation for all the iconic wines that have come out of Bordeaux since then.

A milestone in recent history was the introduction of its own classification in 1953. A total of 16 wineries were awarded Crus Classés de Graves, with this classification covering both red and white wines. This distinguishes it from almost all other classifications in the Bordeaux region. There is only one small drawback for Graves. All of the classified châteaux are now located in the Pessac-Léognan sub-region, which was recognised as a separate appellation in 1987.

Climate and soils in Graves

Even though the Atlantic Ocean is not within throwing distance, Graves is influenced by the ocean – its influence extends that far. But what is much more important is that the Garonne River balances out temperature fluctuations, storing heat in summer and gradually releasing it again in autumn, thus slightly extending the ripening period of the grapes. In other words, the river harmonises the climate, which otherwise could cause problems for viticulture with its extremes. In the west of Graves, there are also large pine forests that provide protection from strong winds. This in turn minimises the risk of late frosts.

That alone is pretty much ideal. But the soils make it even better. These consist mainly of pebbles (French: ‘graves’), which were washed down from the Pyrenees in ancient times. These soils are low in nutrients but offer excellent drainage properties. They also store heat during the day and release it to the vines at night, which leads to a longer ripening period. Further south, there are also sandier soils and layers of limestone and clay, which add additional nuances to the wines. This brings us seamlessly to the taste of Graves wines.

Famous Graves wines

Graves is especially renowned for its excellent and versatile red wines. But the white wines may be even more special. The white wines from Chateau Haut Brion are considered one of the best white wines worldwide, comparable to the status of Le Montrachet in Burgundy. But the white wines of Pape Clement or Smith-Haut-Lafite are also very sought after by wine lovers all over the world.

To list famous Graves wines or producers is always a matter of taste of preference, but next to the chateaux alerady mentioned, chateaux like La Mission Haut Brion, Domaine de Chevalier and Haut Bailly are often mentioned.

What does a wine from Graves taste like?

Due to the different blending possibilities for the cuvées, the Graves style cannot be easily categorised for both white and red wines. Nevertheless, we will attempt to square the vinophile circle. Graves red wines are often well-structured with balanced tannins. They display aromas of dark fruits such as black cherries and blackberries, as well as notes of tobacco, cedar wood and sometimes graphite. This complexity is due to the combination of Merlot (for fruitiness) and Cabernet Sauvignon (for structure).

The dry white wines from Graves are among the best in Bordeaux. They are characterised by lively acidity, mineral notes and aromas of citrus fruits, peaches and floral nuances. Their ageing potential is particularly noteworthy: over time, they develop complex honey and nut aromas. Here, too, the grape variety composition is crucial. Sémillon brings richness and ageing potential, while Sauvignon Blanc provides freshness and aromatic intensity. Muscadelle is often added in small quantities to add floral notes. Incidentally, the white wines from Graves are among the best in Bordeaux. They are definitely worth a closer look.

What food goes well with wines from Graves?

Between us: you can accompany an entire menu with wines from Graves! Serving oysters as an appetiser? Then a young white wine from Graves is an excellent choice. Seafood also goes well with this type of wine. And if you are grilling fish, then reach for a slightly mature white wine from Graves. In this case, the aromas of the wine are already a little more complex, which goes well with the roasted aromas. Light poultry dishes can also benefit from this combination.

Graves red wines are the perfect accompaniment to all red meat dishes. A rack of lamb can be a poem when paired with a slightly mature Graves. The same applies to beef dishes. Our tip: an entrecôte Bordelaise paired with a mature red wine from Graves