The year 1998 was a trial for everyone in Champagne. August was so sweltering that the fruit on the vines was scorched, and the first two weeks of September were marked by overcast and rainy weather. Dom Pérignon waited. The harvest was postponed until late September, when the sunshine returned, a decision that, far from ruining the vintage, actually made it.
In the glass, this Champagne is characterized more by tension than weight, with the clarity of Chardonnay evident up front, while Pinot Noir provides the underlying structure. It will be at its best for enjoyment through 2040.
James Suckling (96)
Decadent and rich DP with so much pie crust, white truffle and dried apple and pineapple character. Limestone too. Full body, layered and flavorful. Lovely texture of fine bubbles. Very rich at the end but then turns fresh and vibrant. Contrast now between ripe fruit and fresh acidity.
Jancis Robinson (18.5)
Delicate but very concentrated too. Round and rich. Quite opulent. Broad and muscular; meaty.
Vinous (94)
The 1998 Dom Pérignon P2 is clearly heading into its next plateau of maturity, as evidenced by a host of coffee, roasted almond, butter, brioche, caramel, lemon confit and pastry notes. Even so, there is a good bit of freshness to play off a generally mature set of aromas and flavors. Readers who enjoy mature Champagne will find quite a bit to like in the 1998. Today, it is especially open-knit and giving. Two recent bottles have been terrific.
Falstaff (96)
Pale gold, silvery highlights, fine mousse. Fresh orange zest on the nose, with delicate notes of butterscotch, white stone fruit, a floral touch, and a hint of lilies. Complex on the palate, with well-judged extract sweetness and a touch of nougat caramel; underpinned by a racy structure, with delicate notes of dried porcini mushrooms and a hint of acacia honey. Very elegant and balanced, offering a multi-faceted drinking experience.
