Domaine Vincent Dauvissat

Robert, then René, then Vincent

The Dauvissat family has been selling wine under its own brand since 1931, and Robert Dauvissat is generally credited with founding the business. Since the estate has been passed down from father to son through the generations, the label has long featured not just a single name but the joint names René & Vincent Dauvissat.

René is the figure who brought widespread fame to this domaine. Starting in 1976, his classic yet understated Chablis secured a broad base of enthusiasts extending far beyond France, and the wine's quality was further elevated when his son, Vincent, joined the business in the 1970s.

Vincent's path into the wine industry was unconventional. He worked as a shepherd before returning to the family-owned vineyard at Chablis, a fact that perfectly illustrates this winemaker's indifference to trends.

Succession remains central to the family's legacy. Etiennette, Vincent Dauvissat's daughter, currently works alongside her father, guiding visitors through the wine cellar and introducing new vintages while her father is out in the vineyards.

The vineyards, small in size great in quality

For such a famous domaine, its holdings are not particularly large and are scattered across several named vineyards. Domaine Vincent Dauvissat owns Petit Chablis and Chablis, four Premier Crus, Vaillons, Forêt (labeled as La Forest by this domaine), Séchet and Montée de Tonnerre, as well as two Grand Crus: Les Clos and Preuses.

The latter two are the wines most coveted by collectors. The fact that the estate owns old-vine plots for both Les Clos and Preuses places this family among the small group of Chablis growers with a substantial stake in the top tier.

Red wines are also produced. In addition to the white appellation, this domaine cultivates vines in Irancy, a red appellation located in the same corner of Burgundy, so its wines are not limited to whites.

Yields are on the low side, and this is no accident. The strict sorting process during harvest, is the reason for such low production volumes.

Chardonnay, with one exception

• For the Chablis and Petit Chablis wines, from Petit Chablis all the way up to Grand Cru, we use only Chardonnay.
• Pinot Noir for the Irancy, the only wine that falls outside the scope of the white appellation, is made from Red grapes intended for bottling.

The grape variety is determined by the appellation. The Domaine Vincent Dauvissat's lineup is essentially an interpretation of a single grape variety  wines (cepage) across several different vineyards.

Winemaking

At Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, little has changed over the decades, and the family members openly acknowledge this. The grapes are harvested by hand and pressed whole, without removing the stems.

Fermentation begins naturally without the use of cultured yeast, taking place partly in enamelled steel tanks and partly in oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation also occurs naturally. There is no bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) or fining; tartaric acid crystals are allowed to settle naturally through the traditional method of exposing the wine to winter cold.

While oak barrels play a key role here, new oak is never used. Aging takes place in barrels that are approximately 6 to 8 years old, including traditional feuillettes (small, locally made oak barrels). This follows the logic previously presented by René Dauvissat: the slow interaction between air and oak adds character to the wine and softens flavors that might otherwise become too harsh or rough.

Vineyard management is intentionally kept light. Treatments and spray applications are carried out only when the vineyards truly demands them. Although the domaine is generally known to have converted to biodynamic farming in the early 2000s, Vincent Dauvissat treats this from a practical perspective in stead must have form.

These Chablis may not immediately appeal to the drinker. The wines retain a firm structure for many years, and older bottles require long, sometimes very long, decanting periods before their aromas fully unfold.

From Petit Chablis to Les Clos

This lineup steadily climbs the Chablis-grade ladder without losing its unique character. The domaine produces the village Petit Chablis and Chablis, the Premier Crus Chablis La Forest, Chablis Vaillons, Séchet and Montée de Tonnerre. Les Clos is the most prestigious Grand Cru, and Preuses shares in that reputation.

There is also the Irancy red wine, which appears as an exception in a list otherwise dominated by Chablis appellations.

Overall, patience pays off. For Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines, 10 years of bottle aging is a reasonable starting point, and even the Village-level Chablis will reveal its true value after a few years of aging.