Chablis Grand Cru les Clos 2008 Domaine William Fèvre

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Robert Parker (96)

Smoky, fusil crushed chalk and fresh lemon in the nose of Fevre’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos lead to a palate lusciously-brimming with fresh apricot, lemon, and grapefruit, suffused with chalk, white pepper, salt, iodine, green tea, and distilled herbal essences. Exhilarating and rejuvenating, this finishes with a tenacity, vivacity, and tactile presence hard to equal in the vintage. A gripping, ultra-mineral Les Clos, for all of its sheer fruit intensity, it makes no concessions to charm or winsomeness, particularly in its mineral-dominated finish, which some may consider austere. But few will be able to weather this cru’s gutsy intensity unbent, or scour its residues from their gums and lips. I suspect it will be worth following for a good 15 years, but even more than any of the other wines in the 2008 Fevre collection, this should be given a few years in bottle before one gets serious about drinking more than an introductory bottle.