| Classification | Grand Cru |
| Type | Red |
| Producer | Louis Billard |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Country | France |
| Main region | Burgundy |
| Region | Côte de Nuits |
| Appellation | Vougeot |
| Grape | Pinot Noir |
| Alcohol % | 13.5% |
| Volume | 0,75 |
| Condition | Perfect |
| Label | Perfect |
| Drinkable | 2027-2042 |
| Stock | 2 |
Louis Billard's “Clos de Vougeot” from the 2023 harvest is his second vintage, marking the year in which this young brand has solidified its strong position since its debut. Billard, who worked at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti before launching his own brand in 2022, uses Grand Cru grapes from the Côte de Nuits. The Pinot Noir undergoes cold maceration and is partially fermented with whole clusters, then aged in oak barrels consisting of a blend of new and old barrels.
Aromas of red cherries and raspberries hit the nose first, followed by notes of violets and a peppery, whole-cluster spice that sits on top of the fruit rather than within it. The 2023 Clos de Vougeot, with an alcohol content of 13.5%, feels light, while that year's hot September comes across as concentrated rather than heavy. The tannins are fine-grained but still pronounced, harmonizing with fresh oak notes. It leaves a sap-like freshness and a stony finish. Louis Billard has produced a wine that requires several years of aging for its fruit flavors to fully unfold.
Pinot Noir alone, as Vougeot demands. The 2023 flowering season was very successful for Pinot Noir, and because the grapes grew large, green harvesting was crucial for this wine.
It is best enjoyed between 2027 and 2042. Time is needed for the stem tannins and new oak aromas to harmonize with the fruit flavors. Store in a cool place at approximately 12°C. Given this length of aging, it is best to let the wine breathe in a decanter for about an hour before serving at 16-18°C. Over time, the cherry aromas evolve into earthier notes (undergrowth, mushrooms, forest floor).
Starting a new Burgundy label with wines from Meursault, Volnay and Vosne-Romanée is not how it usually goes, but that is exactly what Louis Billard did with his debut 2022 vintage. He grew up in La Rochepot, where his family has made wine for five generations at Domaine Billard Père et Fils, then trained elsewhere first: two vintages at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the 2020 harvest at Domaine Georges Roumier, plus stints at Newton Johnson in South Africa and By Farr in Australia. There is no single estate here. Billard buys and farms a patchwork of plots from Saint-Aubin to Vosne-Romanée, tending the Côte de Beaune parcels himself, working only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from vines of twenty to over sixty years. Some of his red wine barrels are ex-DRC, bought from his former employer. Precision and restraint define the style.
The grapes used for this Grand Cru were produced on a mid-slope band within the Clos; this is a crucial factor because the characteristics of this walled vineyard differ between the upper and lower sections. Lighter wines are produced in the upper section, while heavier wines come from the flat lower section. The mid-slope falls in between, and it is precisely here that the Clos de Vougeot wine from Louis Billard derives its balanced structure. Côte de Nuits has a cool, continental climate, which results in slow ripening. Thanks to this, Pinot Noir retains its acidity well.
Grand Cru grapes are fermented here in wooden fermentation tanks, which differs from the concrete and steel tanks used for Billard's village wines. After five days of cold maceration, the wine undergoes a 15-day natural fermentation process, with pump-overs in the early stages followed by gentle punch-downs. Seventy percent of the grapes were fermented whole-cluster, which is why the wine features prominent spicy and floral aromas. It was aged for 15 months in 228-liter oak barrels from Rémond and used oak barrels purchased from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (half of which were new), then two months in stainless steel tanks.
With its typical tannins and refreshing acidity, this wine pairs better with savory, earthy dishes than with charred beef. Try it with saddle of venison, roasted rare. Boeuf bourguignon, the Burgundian default for good reason. Morel or porcini mushroom risotto, a dish where the earthy notes in the glass harmonize with the earthy notes on the plate. Époisses cheese also pairs well; the wine's acidity helps soften the cheese's creamy flavor.
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