Testamatta Bianco 2018 Bibi Graetz

Tasting Notes

The aroma is dominated by notes of salted almonds and yellow stone fruits, along with distinct aromas of Mediterranean herbs and nuances reminiscent of a sea breeze. On the palate, this white wine with such pronounced salinity possesses a surprisingly broad bouquet: the Ansonica grape variety lends “Testamatta Bianco” a rich fullness, while the mineral notes derived from granite give the wine a firm structure. The long and aromatic finish is accompanied by a zesty note reminiscent of citrus zest.

Grape Varieties

“Testamatta Bianco 2018” is made from 100% Ansonica (known as Inzolia in Sicily). This grape variety:

• imparts nutty and citrus notes to the wine, as well as a herbaceous freshness
• retains a firm structure even on granite soils, where many white wines often lose their firmness
• develops a slightly salty flavor thanks to the sea breeze blowing from the island of Giglio

Cellaring Potential

The wine can be enjoyed until 2035. The 2018 vintage possesses the acidity and briny structure necessary for further aging, and Ansonica, grown in old terraced vineyards, retains its qualities much longer than many would expect from a white wine. Store the wine horizontally at a temperature of 12–14 °C. The initial fruity notes will gradually fade, giving way to waxy aromas and honeyed nuances.

About Bibi Graetz

Bibi Graetz studied art at the Florence Academy of Fine Arts and had no formal training as a winemaker. In the second half of the 1990s, when it was time to renew the lease on the historic family vineyard in Castello di Vincigliata, he chose to take them on rather than let the leases expire. When the first vintage was released in 2000, people immediately took notice. The winery is located in the building of the former Hotel Aurora on the main square in Fiesole, where Graetz himself lives.

Terroir & Climate

Giglio is different from the Tuscany that many people imagine. There is neither galestro soil nor the gentle hills of Chianti here. Instead, granite terraces stretch down toward the Tyrrhenian Sea, and a salty breeze blows over the vines every day. Granite provides good drainage and heats up quickly, so even in hot years, the Ansonica grape retains its acidity. The sea breeze plays the rest of the role, layering on aromas of the sea and herbs that cannot be recreated during winemaking. This is one of the few places in Tuscany where the production of true white wine is justified from a geological standpoint.

Winemaking

At Bibi Graetz, the grape harvest on Giglio is done by hand and carried out in several stages. Sometimes they return to the same plot up to 8 times to harvest the grapes. Only natural yeasts are used. Fermentation in small plots takes place in open 225-liter barriques (small French oak barrels), while in larger plots it occurs in more spacious stainless steel tanks or vats. Each plot is monitored separately from fermentation through aging, and the wines are blended during the final stage. Texture plays an important role. The rich and almost “chewy” mid-palate for which Testamatta Bianco is famous is the result of fermentation in barriques.

Food Pairing

Thanks to its saltiness and texture, this wine has a rich body and pairs well with dishes that evoke the sea. We recommend:

• Pan-seared branzino with lemon and olive oil
• Spaghetti alle vongole with plenty of garlic
• Roast chicken with rosemary and capers
• Aged Tuscan pecorino

Serve at 11–12 °C. If chilled any further, the wine will lose its aroma. For the 2018 vintage, we recommend decanting the wine for 30 minutes to allow it to breathe.