Baron Ricasoli has been producing wine in Brolio since the 12th century. Predominantly Sangiovese with a small proportion of Canaiolo. CeniPrimo is one of three wines from individual vineyards situated on the estate’s land in Gaiole, and the lowest-lying of the three. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of between 280 and 300 metres on sandy-loam soils in the Val d’Arbia , an old riverbed, rather than on the stony slopes with galestro where most Chianti Classico is grown.
The wine is made from 100 per cent Sangiovese, fermented using yeasts selected from the estate’s own vineyards, and then aged in 500-litre ‘tonno’ casks, approximately a third of which are new. These barrels are more than twice the size of barriques, so the oak notes remain subtle.
Gran Selezione is the highest category of Chianti Classico, ranking above Riserva; its production requires grapes grown on the estate’s land and thirty months of ageing.
Expect notes of dark cherry and kirsch, cedar, leather and dried flowers, ‘dusty’ tannins and an acidity that lends the wine a lightness. The alcohol content is 14 per cent; the wine will continue to drink well for another two decades.
Robert Parker (95)
The Barone Ricasoli 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio CeniPrimo opens to a medium-dark saturated appearance and a slightly more concentrated feel that translates into aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry, spice and sweet earth. This wine carries a little more fruit weight and textural richness thanks to lower-elevation vineyards and silty riverbed soils. However, this wine also offers a spot of vibrant freshness on the close, and that makes a big difference in a warm vintage like this. It remains meticulously balanced throughout.
James Suckling (97)
Aromas of al dente cherries with citrus peel. Flowers, such as red roses, also come through clearly. Medium to full body, with open grain tannins that caress like cashmere. Chewy, fresh and vivid. Give this three to five years to come together. Try after 2027.
Jeb Dunnuck (94)
A youthful and reflective ruby into magenta, the 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione CeniPrimo opens to layered aromas of cedar, kirsch, fresh leather, candied raspberry, and sweet licorice. Medium to full-bodied, it’s refined and plush on the palate, with a velvety texture that never feels heavy, clean, balanced acidity, and a long finish. This is a gorgeous, very high-quality offering to enjoy over the next 15 to 20 years.
