Sassicaia

History & Heritage

The irony of Sassicaia is perfect. Italy's first Super Tuscan wine began as a personal project. Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet Sauvignon in 1944 because the gravelly soils near Bolgheri reminded him of the Bordeaux estates he had visited For more than 20 years, he made wines to be drunk only with his family.

In 1968, his nephew Piero Antinori convinced him to sell the wine, but Italian wine law forced him to label it as a simple table wine, Vino da Tavola, because it did not contain the required Sangiovese. 1978, Sassicaia was When it swept Decanter magazine's famous blind tasting, the absurdity became clear: this "table wine" was better than the best wines of Bordeaux.

This success gave rise to a new category, Super Tuscan, which eventually forced a change in Italian wine law: in 1994, Sassicaia became the first and only DOC-rated wine in Italy.

The Producer

Tenuta San Guido is located in the Maremma along the Tyrrhenian Sea, but its story began with the stubbornness of one man. Mario Incisa della Rocchetta believed that Bordeaux grapes could grow on the Tuscan coast, despite local wisdom that only Sangiovese was suitable. He planted his first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in 1944 and kept the wine to himself for 20 years, not selling it until 1968.

The estate covers 2,500 hectares, with 100 hectares of vineyards. Since Mario's death, the family has kept his original vision alive by adding modern precision to the winemaking process. They produce Guidalberto as a second wine and Le Difese as a third wine, but Sassicaia remains the flagship. Best of Wines considers this producer important in understanding the evolution of Italian wine in the modern era.

Winemaking

Two weeks of fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks may seem standard, but here's what's important. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged for 24 months in French oak, but only 25% new oak. This restraint is crucial. Too much new oak will mask the mineral precision that makes Sassicaia so special. 225-liter Bordeaux barriques are used as barriques; nothing larger is used. Before release, the wine is aged in bottles for a further six months to give it time to integrate. This is done not to maximize color or tannins, but for precision, as Carlo Ferrini, who has been consulting winemaker since 2013, understands that Sassicaia's personality comes from the vineyard, not the cellar.

Tasting Notes

Pure blackcurrant and graphite, but with almost mineral precision, from the soils of galestro in Bolgheri. Cabernet Sauvignon (on average 85% of the blend) gives this wine classic black currant depth, while on average 15% Cabernet Franc adds the violet nuances and exuberance that distinguish Sassicaia from pure (for example Napa) Cabernet Sauvignon. On the palate, the tannins are serious but refined, and although the wine is aged for 24 months in French oak, the oak is integrated rather than flashy. The aroma shows notes of cedar, pencil sharpening and Mediterranean herbs. The finish is long, with notes of dark chocolate.

Food Pairing

The tannin structure requires protein and fat to soften. Think Tuscan classics first:

• Bistecca alla Fiorentina, simply cooked meat with a bone.
• Wild boar ragout with pappardelle
• Pecorino Toscano, aged for at least 12 months.
• Osso buco with red wine

But why does it work so well? The acidity of the wine breaks down the rich marrow and fat, while the subtle tannins need protein: serve at 16-18°C and decant for at least an hour if drinking young. A mineral base also works well with mature hard cheeses.

Serving Suggestions

Temperature is more important than most people think. Serve the wine at around 18°C, which is lower than normal room temperature. If the temperature is too high, alcohol will predominate; if too low, aromas will be lost.

Decant young wines for at least 2+ hours. Exposure to oxygen changes the wine and reveals layers hidden in the bottle. Older wines (older than 15 years) require more gentle treatment, and 1 hour of decanting is usually sufficient.

Use a large glass if available. Wines benefit from exposure to air, especially Sassicaia. Wines from recent vintages should be opened one hour before decanting.

Vintages

Sassicaia shows vintage variation more vividly than most Tuscan wines because of Bolgheri's coastal location: warmer years, such as 2019 and 2022, produce wines with higher concentration and more mature tannins. Cooler years develop more structure and minerality and often produce the most memorable wines, although they require longer cellaring.

The 2018s exhibit classic Sassicaia characteristics, balancing power and elegance with a structure that suggests the potential for 20+ years of aging; the 2020s show more immediate appeal, but retain the foundation for long-term development; and the 2018s are more concentrated, with more tannin and minerality, but require long-term cellaring.

If drinking now, go for the mid-2010s wines, which have had time to develop secondary flavors. For serious cellaring, choose the most structured ages. These bottles confirm Sassicaia's reputation as one of Italy's most age-worthy wines.

Cellaring Potential

This wine is made for long-term cellaring. The structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon, the mineral terroir of Bolgheri, and careful barrel aging combine to produce a wine that will improve over 20 to 30 years. Young wines show plenty of primary fruit flavors, but benefit from 5 to 8 years of aging to allow time for the tannins to integrate.

The legendary 1985 wine is now over 40 years old and still drinking beautifully. The wine's longevity is due to Bolgheri's unique ability to produce Cabernet with natural acidity and tannins, as well as power and elegance.

Store in a dark place at 12-14°C (54-57°F). Also, do not open young bottles too soon. This is one of those wines where patience pays off.