Grauburgunder Smaragd 2023 Franz Hirtzberger

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James Suckling (96)

A pinot gris revelation from Austria. I love the nose of orange blossoms and floral honey. Wonderfully creamy and yet properly dry, this is a beautiful, almost perfectly balanced wine. Medium- to full-bodied with soft acidity, but with a healthy and polished structure and a great mouthfeel in the very long and precise finish. Drink or hold.

Vinous (94)

The 2023 Grauburgunder Smaragd is from a northeast-facing site on loamy, calcareous, water-retentive soils. Tenderly scented lemon is all the nose gives away, atypically but enticingly. The palate comes with gorgeous astringency and impressive contour on the ripe, juicy mid-palate. This is the most atypical, fresh yet generous Grauburgunder with a graceful phenolic structure. (Bone-dry)