Professionelle Bewertungen
James Suckling (98)
Lots of toasted baguette, nut and lees complexity for a German sparkling wine. Also stacks of candied citrus. Terrific tension between the vibrant citrusy character, restrained lees creaminess and intense salty minerality. Great energy in the very long, vibrant finish. Based on the 2020 vintage, with 15% of reserve wine from 2019. A cuvee of 50% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir and 15% pinot meunier that was disgorged in March 2024.
Jancis Robinson (17)
50% Chardonnay from Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott, 35% Pinot Noir from Frauenberg and 15% Pinot Meunier from Bürgel (0.2 ha planted there). Based on the 2020 vintage with 10% reserve wines. Barrel aged. Disgorged a few weeks ago and will be on the market in 2025. 2,200 bottles produced. They have also planted Pinot Meunier in Schwarzer Herrgott. Made by Felix Keller.
Refined, stony citrus. Extremely pure with only very slight yeasty autolytic character. Tightly wound, super-fresh, with a marked mineral stone-dust character. On the finish, clear-cut citrus purity. Had I tasted this blind, I might have thought it was a blanc de blancs except there is a suggestion of tannin to perfect the structure. Very fine, especially for only the second vintage of this wine. (JH)
BOW (8.50)
Sect No. 002, produced in small quantities using traditional methods from grapes grown on Keller's chalkiest plots in Westhofen, combines Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in a composition clearly reminiscent of champagne. Long ageing on the lees and zero dosage give the wine remarkable precision: a sharp citrus aroma, green apple skin and a hint of red berries, accompanied by a subtle mineral note reminiscent of the limestone soils of Morshtayn and Kirchspill. The mousse is exquisitely delicate, the taste is dense and texturally precise, with a salty aftertaste that lifts the mood and quietly dominates. This is the benchmark German brut nature — Keller's crystal-clear signature expressed in sparkling form.
