Der 2013er Le Mesnil von Champagne Salon ist ein Blanc de Blancs, der auf etwa 19 kleinen Parzellen in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger angebaut wird. Der Austrieb verzögerte sich 2013 aufgrund eines kühlen Frühlings, im August herrschte eine anhaltende Hitzewelle, und im September wurden die Nächte wieder kühl. Die Lese fand im Oktober bei kühlen, aber sonnigen Bedingungen statt, mit einem Ertrag von 13.000 kg pro Hektar.
Diese langsame, verzögerte Reifung spiegelt sich im Glas wider: Eine lebhafte Säure verleiht dem Wein Struktur, während die Reifung sur lie (die Zeit, die der Wein auf den nach der Gärung verbleibenden Hefezellen verbringt) für zusätzliche Fülle sorgt.
Michel Fauconnet ist Kellermeister und Produktionsleiter, Didier Depond Präsident; das Weingut selbst ist als nachhaltig zertifiziert.
Dieser Wein lässt sich am besten zwischen 2025 und 2050 genießen. Zwar kann er bereits jetzt getrunken werden, doch um seine reichen Aromen voll zur Geltung zu bringen, empfiehlt es sich, ihn zu dekantieren, damit er atmen kann, oder ihn in einem großen Glas zu servieren.
Robert Parker (97)
2013 is a cool, late-ripening vintage in Champagne, defined by an October harvest in cool but sunny conditions. With a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, the 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil possesses a complex, fruity bouquet mingling aromas of orchard fruit with notions of lemon oil, exotic fruits, spring flowers, almond and hints of menthol and buttery pastry. Full-bodied, rich and dense, with lively acids, it’s more complex and incisive than the 2002 and exhibits similar power to the 2012 at this early stage. Despite what was a challenging growing season for some producers, this is a superb Salon with a long, resonant finish.
James Suckling (97)
Beautiful and expressive nose of waxed lemons, chamomile, hazelnuts, sourdough, mango stones and hints of orange curd. It's linear and laser-sharp, with an elegant balance of minerality and touches of ripe yellow fruit, all held together by lively acidity and tiny bubbles. Sophisticated. Evolves to a dry chalkiness at the end. Long, textured finish.
Jancis Robinson (18.5)
At the moment, disarmingly open and approachable (Didier Depond compares 2013 to 1983 in this respect and expects it to close down in 18–24 months). Subtle biscuit notes on the nose, creamy on the palate with masses of concentration and many layers of texture. Fine mousse with a savoury/salty edge freshening up the finish. Plenty of driving acidity underneath but not at all unbalanced. Clearly a very long future ahead and I suspect it will need to be cellared for at least 5 years if not enjoyed in the first flush of ‘youth’!
Vinous (99)
The 2013 is the most powerful, dense young Salon I have ever tasted. Champagne of mind-bending complexity, the 2013 possesses tremendous mid-palate intensity and power from the very first taste. Lemon confit, dried flowers, mint and a touch of brioche appear first, followed by light tropical accents that add an exotic flair. Imagine the sizzling energy of the 2008 and the persistence of 2004, with more mid-palate richness and riper fruit. Two-thousand thirteen was a cool, late ripening year. Harvest started at the beginning of October under sunny, dry days and cool nights, conditions that have not been seen since then. Readers will find a spectacular, modern Salon endowed with tremendous depth and very little of the youthful austerity that once defined Champagnes from cooler years here. The 5.5 grams per liter of dosage is perfectly judged. In a word: Magnificent.
Decanter (97)
The first impression upon release in September 2023 is of surprisingly open, welcoming fragrance for young Salon; orange cream, floral honey and lemon peel, backed up with delicate browned pastry, milky oyster and nut oil complexity that speaks of the long lees ageing. It is taut rather than austere, with a delicate, even level of flesh on its rigid bones as the classic chalky marine squeeze of Le Mesnil takes hold and propels a long, detailed lemon peel finish. This could prove a classic Salon given considerable patience.
BOW (9)
