The year 2022 brought a second consecutive year of drought to the Langhe region. There was little snowfall in the winter to replenish depleted water reserves, and spring was warm and dry, with flowering occurring about 10 days earlier than average. July was sweltering, and canopy management, covering the grape clusters with leaves to prevent sunscald, became the primary task in the vineyard. Yields decreased, falling by as much as 20-25% in some vineyards, and the berries became smaller while their skins thickened.
However, the fruit developed healthily and kept moderate sugar levels; harvesting began early in some parts of the region, in mid-September, rather than the usual October. This combination shaped the character of this wine. While it possesses a concentrated flavor and robust structure, it lacks the overripe or raisin-like nuances that a hot year might otherwise impart. Serralunga already makes some of the slowest-maturing Barolo in the appellation.
Robert Parker (94)
As the label indicates, the Ester Canale Rosso 2022 Barolo Vignarionda, identified as Map 8, parcel number 251P and distinguished by its red wax capsule, comes from vines in one of Serralunga d'Alba's most revered crus, planted in 1946. The wine reveals a calm and steady personality with broad, consistent aromatic intensity. Dark fruit, plum, earthy notes and lightly toasted spice give it a range of aromas that embrace both the sweet and savory sides of Nebbiolo. Rather than soaring with floral high tones, this is a baritone expression, emphasizing depth, gravitas and persistence. Just 5,731 bottles were produced, along with 431 magnums, 45 double magnums and 24 Jeroboams.
Jeb Dunnuck (95)
A hazy bright ruby/orange, the 2022 Barolo Vigna Rionda is sunny but more shy at this stage from barrel, with notes of resin, dark cherry fruit, balsamic, and dark stones. Firmly structured but very well-balanced, it has wonderful length and an earthy finish. It will take time time to see where this is going or to guess at its longevity.
