Professional reviews
Robert Parker (94)
Dönnhoff's 2023 Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Riesling trocken GG is similar to the Höllenpfad 1G but significantly more intense and fascinatingly pure in its concentrated and elegant fruit that intermingles with herbal and almost smoky as well as citric and phenolic notes. It's remarkably complex. Fruit comes from vines more than 50 years old grown in sandstone soils. Dense but juicy and refined in its acidity and salinity, this is an elegant and balanced yet pure, refined and layered Mühlberg Riesling with a playful minerality and serious structure. This full-bodied yet never alcoholic wine develops a long, intense and salivating finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in August and October 2024.
James Suckling (99)
Who can resist this beauty? The explosive nose of yellow peaches and wild blackberries sucks you inexorably into this extremely concentrated, but also incredibly refined and precise dry riesling. A great masterpiece of delicacy and purity, with a finish that doesn’t want to stop pumping out the wet stone minerality. A de facto monopole site for this producer.
Jancis Robinson (17)
Erste Lage. Tank sample.
Stony, spicy and cool. A delicate daisy chain crowns the complex and concentrated citrus core. Ripe, balanced acidity. Stunning momentum with a chiselled and crystalline bitterness. Sublime. (PS)
Vinous (95)
The 2024 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlberg Grosses Gewächs, from the very heart of this red Permian sandstone site, tingles with a sense of pepper on the nose. The palate is beautifully clear and luminous, only revealing tender notions of the usually herbal savor as shimmering touches of tansy and yarrow. This is like a sublimation of Riesling. It’s ultra-light, ultra-bright and so deeply rooted in stone. (Bone-dry)
